Prevention & Nutrition for Racing/Homing Pigeons

[Jerry]

Hi
I don't know if this post should be here or in the General section. I am curious if there is any type of regular "well bird" preventative medicine that is used to prevent diseases? If your birds are healthy and not in contact with other birds are they fairly safe from infection and/or parasites. I really love my birds and want to keep them healthy and happy.
Jerry

[Trees Gray]

Hello Jerry,


Are you talking about medication or preventive maintenance?

For preventive maintenance here is my regimen:

ONCE A WEEK:

1. Garlic is an incredible natural antibiotic. It is the allicin that is the key ingredient to purify the bloodstream and build up the immune system,maintains beautiful feathering & white wattle. It is a natural anti-bacterial, anti-fungul, and anti-inflammatory. (They will not fuss about the taste of the garlic if you use no more then 1 organic clove of garlic per gallon of fresh water). If they fuss about it, buy the Now brand softgel capsules and give one to each bird down the throat every few days.

Please see thread http://www.pigeons.biz/forums/showthread.php?t=12553 for more indepth information on "the goodness of garlic"

2. Once a week, 1 to 2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar to a gallon water for good gut PH at a level that bacteria, such as Salmonella and E Coli don't like, and most likely will not thrive in the crop. I recommend the organic ACV from the health food store as it has the "mother" in it. You can also give the birds probiotics at this time, as the ACV favors good bacteria over bad bacteria. ACV provides a favorable environment for the good gut bacteria to repopulate.

ACV can be used in heavier doses for medicinal purposes, see the following thread:
http://www.pigeons.biz/forums/showthread.php?t=15856


THE FOLLOWING CAN BE MIXED TOGETHER ONCE A WEEK WITH THE SEED:

3. PROBIOTICS I recommend a human grade pro-biotic from the health food store. You can buy it in powder and mix with seeds. Use 1 teaspoon per lb. of seed. You can also buy it in capsule and just pull the capsule apart. I use Solgar multi-dophilus powder, and for birds with special needs I use Total Flora Support. This one also worked extremelly well for raising baby pigeons. it contains:
L. Acidophilus, B. bifidum, L. bulgaricus, L. plantarium, L. reuteri, L. salvarius, E. faecium, S. thermophilus, fructooligosacharrides, calcium ascorbate, & enzymes.

4. A MULTI-VITAMIN MINERAL PREPARATION with amino acids, and micro minerals once a week. You can get one for all birds, like Prime, or for pigeons specifically ( Prime is great for indoor birds). I use the Herba multi vitamins for pigeons and have great results with it. I alternate with another brand every other week, so the birds get best all around nutrients from different sources. Please use dosages strictly as per instructions PER LB. OF SEED, too much can overdose them, and their minerals and nutrients will be out of balance. Some preparations can be used with water and/or mixed with seed.

5. BREWERS YEAST Once a week a tablespoon to a lb. of pigeon seed,
You can purchase the multi-vitamins and brewers yeast at any pigeon supply house like Globals, Siegels, Jedds, and Foys. However, I don't recommend using it during the rearing of young, or when the birds are on antibiotics due to possible fungus problems.



MIX 3, 4, & 5 TOGETHER with A LITTLE wheat germ oil, just enough to get the MIX to stick to the seed. Shake it up WELL in a clean plastic bag and serve.

IT IS BETTER TO MIX THESE THINGS WITH THE SEED AS THEY WILL NOT QUIBBLE OVER SOME STUFF OVER THEIR FOOD, BUT THEY WON'T DRINK FULLY OF THEIR WATER IF THEY ARE NOT HAPPY WITH THE TASTE.



FOR RACING PIGEONS

For added performance you can add a little dash of "Concentrace" in the water daily for trace minerals. This product comes from bodybuilding.com. Birdy uses this for his YB's.

7.[b]PREVENTIVE MEDICATION[/B[

I recommend these products before breeding and if your birds are in contact with other pigeons. I do use a medication for the prevention of canker, coccidiosis, and worms, called Globals Multi-Mix. This is also used by those who race pigeons. I can also recommend a preventive medication, called Dacoxine, which is a 4 in 1 treatment. This one is for the prevention of canker, E-coli, Paratyphoid, and Coccidiosis. You need only use either Globals multi-mix or Dacoxine, do not use them at the same time. Please read & follow instructions carefully. The products are excellent and work extremely well in pigeons because it was designed for them. Please only use seasonally and only on youngsters 6 months and older,as it is best to initiate a good nutrition program first and let your birds build up a natural immunity.

Please follow up the above treatments upon completion with several days of probiotics.

8. PREVENTIVE VACCINATIONS

All birds that go out to fly or are show birds, in contact with other birds should be vaccinated for Pox, Paratyphoid, and PMV also. If you also have birds that are non flyers/homebound, they should be vaccinated as well. PMV must be done annually, and Paratyphoid every 6 months. Pox needs to be done only once when the bird is a youngster. Please follow instructions carefully. With some vaccinations, like PMV it is recommended giving youngsters at 4 to 8 weeks of age, followed by a booster injection 4 to 8 weeks later, and then annually with the older birds.

Read this thread for more info. on Paratyphoid and other vaccines:

http://www.pigeons.biz/forums/showthread.php?t=12461

Global resources/vaccines:http://www.globalpigeon.com/gps.php?...showprod&id=74

Allow your youngsters to get as natural diet as possible, allowing the immune system to build up on its own, and supplement with probiotics in the water or on the seed.


PREVENTION CHECKUPS & FECALS

Have a check up and fecals done on your birds on a regular basis, especially just before and (bi-monthly) during the racing season.

If your birds are not performing as they should, take a random sample and/or the birds that specifically do not perform well, to a good avian vet. Pigeons will try to act like they are fine (this a basic survival skill they use to keep predators away) may be sick. They should have an exam and fecal done to determine if there have any underlying health issues.

If there are any issues, they can be addressed immediately with the specific drug and proper doses, prescribed by a qualified avian vet. If you don't have the slightest idea what the problem is, it is not a good idea to medicate on your own. It will save you a lot of time and trouble to take the extra step. Follow treatment exactly given by the avian vet for the number of days prescribed and then give the birds a few days of quality human grade probiotics.

I don't believe in over medicating our birds, but if a health issue is addressed quickly & correctly with the appropriate drugs, then there is no need for using medications indiscriminetly and putting our birds at more risk. Follow with a good nutrition program, and you will see a noticable difference in their performance. If everyone gets check ups for their birds, no birds would be at risk, by being exposed to those that have less then perfect health during basketing. That is a win win situation.


9.FOOD AND GRIT & CALCIUM

Besides giving pigeons a good pigeon mix of seed, they need grit, AND pickstone. I found that the females go for the pickstone during breeding season. It seems to have the necessary calcium that is different from the red grit. Pigeons pick up grit when they need it, it grinds the seed in their crop and prepares it for digestion.

More about the importance of calcium in pigeons diet:
http://www.pigeons.biz/forums/showthread.php?t=7769

I alternate with different sources of grit and pickcake. that way the birds are supplied with a variety as they would get in nature when they forage.

If you are looking for an example of good pigeon seed mix check out:
http://purgrain.com/products.htm

This company carries different mixes for the breeding season, for the young, and also racing pigeons. You may want to try a different mix for racing season designed for extra energy and reserves.

During the molting season pigeons should have access to an additional 25% barley, to reduce egg production and give them the necessary nutrients demanded of them during the molt. You can also add a little flax seeds to the mix at this time.

[b]DRINKING WATER

Pigeons should have access to clean fresh water everyday, on the days they don't get garlic or ACV in the water, in a container with top, so it does not get soiled. You can use a clean plastic gallon water jug. Cut a big hole in the side, just big enough for them to put their head thru and drink. This plastic container should be thoroughly washed and sanitized daily. I replace with new plastic containers every month.


10.SNACKS
For snacks my pigeons love raw Spanish peanuts, that I break up in smaller pieces for them (go easy). They also get spinach or Kale once a week only, and I am experimenting with other vegetables that are on the pigeon friendly list. Kale is one of the best vegies you can offer them, as it is the most nutritious.

Cilantro can also be juiced and added to drinking water once in a while as it is good preventative for Salmonellas. You can also shred it in a small size and serve it on wet spinach. (per Snowbird)

More about Cilantro: http://www.pigeons.biz/forums/showthread.php?t=5152
http://www.pigeons.biz/forums/showthread.php?t=5133


BATHING
Pigeons love taking baths, especially the young. I offer mine at least a couple clean cat litter tubs of water a few days a week. Add a little bath salts to the water, that you can purchase from the above pigeon supply houses. It cleans their feathering, and keeps bug out. (Two cat litter size bath tubs per 30 birds)


THIS PROGRAM WAS DESIGNED TO MEET THE NEEDS OF ACTIVE (LEAN MEAN FLYING MACHINES) PIGEONS, AND CAN BE CHANGED AS NEEDED, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE PREVENTIVE MEDICATIONS AND INNOCULATIONS.

[Jerry]

Treesa,
Thank you so much for the information. This is exactly what I was looking for. I have had 2 pairs of white homers since Sept. and I have cared for them well as far as food, fresh water, grit, etc. but was wondering what else needed to be done for a optimum lifestyle. Looks like I need to add some reminders on my calendar for thing to add to their regimen...LOL
Thanks again,
Jerry

[Trees Gray]

FOR YOUR INFORMATION: This thread has been updated and revised for everyones use.

[hillfamilyloft]

The Janssen Brothers give their birds carrots and honey in the water once a week. You all know who they are.

[SmithFamilyLoft]

Originally Posted by hillfamilyloft

The Janssen Brothers give their birds carrots and honey in the water once a week. You all know who they are.

FYI,

There is only one remaining Janssen brother, who is well into his 80's. The above listed practice, may have occured in their hay day of the 50's and 60's. But their birds and methods are now really history.

Most birds today being passed off as "Janssen" would not be reconized by the famous brothers. But carrots and honey are still a valid food source, as are BY and Garlic, and ACV. etc. etc.

[re lee]

I used to use honey water after a race in the seventies Seems it perked the returning birds back up very well. And they recovered fast from the race .There are alot of new products no days. I think good feed grit basics. And vit. are a good base. Preventive meds Are good if not ubused. Some people will over med. Thinking the birds need it. When they do not. Now pmv treatment If you race. I think should be a must. exposer can end a race season When brought back to the loft. Janssen birds are just like any birds out there. After bought from the source. They no longer are that breed/ strain. Because the new owner breeds them there way. So the birds are family based on a strain. I would say though A janssen based line Is still a good line of birds. If you get them from a person that has bred them right. And does not sell just paper. Which we all no looks good but means little unless The breeder was sound in loft management.

[SmithFamilyLoft]

Your right Re Lee,

My only point, is perhaps 90% of lofts out there have birds they refer to as "Janssen", which in fact, has felt the imprint of many a fancier. Same with most of the old line strains. Even if a family line was carefully line bred for fifty years, can they really be the same birds which are named after the orginal Master ?

When I have looked at the photo's from the 30's and 40's of some of the famous foundation birds, of some famous strains, and then look at the modern day version....sorry, not even close in type or quality. Even today's masters who have their name placed on their family of birds, are constantly moving forward with their family, with a cross here and there. It is their selection methods and process which has created a new family strain. It is their success which places their name on these bloodlines.

If a guy named "John Smith" started with barn pigeons, and started to win enough races, heck soon enough it will be known as the John Smith Strain, and big bucks will pass hands for these "Orginal" John Smith Birds.
Heck how many pedigrees stop at the parents of a famous bird ? Ludo Claessen, took a stray bird off his roof, and now offspring from that stray, sell for thousands each. When he handled that bird, it's "Strain" or pedigree was meaningless, it's new master, saw his value in his hand.

Heck I am working with direct children, grand children, and now great children, from the great Champions which the Master bred himself. Are my selection of pairings the exact same way, the orginal creator would have done ? I doubt it. My paint brush is at work here. It would be a major accomblishment just to maintain the same quality. The only way to improve, would be to introduce even better birds into the family line. At that point, it is really a Smith Family strain, good, bad, or indiffernet.

[SmithFamilyLoft]

Sorry,

I realized I am way off topic. Forgot what thread I was in. Trees Gray, has an excellent post on this subject. Not sure how she got so smart about this kind of stuff. She knows stuff, that Vets don't learn in medical school.

The challenge is trying to find and locate good packaged food supplements, with out paying extra for the hype and marketing. And not over doing a good thing, with meds, vitamins, etc.

[re lee]

Goes along with my pooint warren. and 30s birds and up to mid 40s. Were different. As most lofts lost many and all to the war. Even the brothers had to hide a few. Then restart. And one of there building blocks was a bird they got that a person kept in a rabbit cage many years befor. Management is the key to breeding and health in the birds. No room for fads.

[hillfamilyloft]

When I posted the Janssen Brothers home remedies I did not know I would spur a Janssen bash. Whether apple cider vinegar, carrots, BY, or garlic, our birds can benefit from nutrition besides feed and grit. Just a note about feeding young birds breeding mix during training and race season. I have been feeding breeding mix in the AM and a lighter mix in the PM after exercise. I supplement with pick stone, vitamines, garlic and Brewers Yeast. My birds are fuller than those of other local fliers. They are not fat, just look bigger and stronger. Van Elsacker feeds his young birds breeding mix during race season. Does anyone have a comment on his feeding method.

To add to your comments that birds change, look at Flor Engels Den 31 pics and then look at the decendents for sale today. 20 years has evolved a much different looking bird. The Engels bird in my loft still has the full barrel chest, but is sleeker looking than the old Den 31. The Janssen bird in my loft said to be from brothers stock through Mike Ganus is a small thin and sleek hen that does not look anything like the black and white pics of old Janssen birds. I look at Verkerk birds that are not appealing to me, but win races.

Just a question: Would we be better off to forgo pedigrees and purchase birds that are in the money in futurities, and the top birds in combines? Would a few select birds from Red Rose Lofts, Charles Lohman, Crazy Al, Tom Hill and Vic Miller, do better than birds from Engels, Janssen, Elsacker, and Verkerk imports?

[re lee]

Any bird that you get I would look to just that bird IF it has been flown Which I think is the best buy. Then to the parents And the grandparents. How well they flew. WE will never be the original breeder so we do as we do. Janssens I still say are a good line of birds. Its really about how far away the birds have been bred from the key birds. Many people sell paper. Thats the problem trusted people sell useable birds. Methods meet your needs. if results show better performance. Keeping the balance in gut bacteria keeps bird healthy. Proper feed mix gives stronger birds. Minerals are like vit, Balances body needs. Meds prevent or cure. BUt health first has less sickness. Birds past were larger used to say wegges were as big as chickens. But not today. Speed today I think is better. Then years ago. Years ago family lines were still being developed. Birds bought and not managed well We know inbred birds loose size. As they say about Europe breeders. When they are gone There birds have been passed on to others The name has gone too. But really Thats how it is any bird Is bred by its owners to there method So its there line Yes they may be directly off said person BUT not bred by them. So take any strain You put your brand on it as you breed. You hope to do good. America has some of the best homers out there But the country is large and Many races. More large state races rather then small club races would highly test the birds. As states are as large as some erope countries. Where large areas race together. with several thousand birds per race. That tests birds well. Also many countries pretty much have the same race station each year. Easyer to breed towards the type of birds that do well for that flight pattern. Alot of things go into raceing. Good practice is fine. BUt breeding is the key. You can have the best feeds the best meds. the best vits, But if the birds do not have the breeding make up to perform. They basicly just get lucky from time to time. I would push state races As one big race season Or district combines. To increase bird numbers and competition. Awin with 50 birds verses a win with say 3000 birds says a litlle more. Then a win with say 10000 birds says even more. But this is just an idea I have thought of several times.

[lawman]

There are a lot of books on the subject, or if you wish to check it out on the internet go to http://www.bioavionics.com/index.html
Dr. Shetrone has been flying pigeons most of his life and his original birds came from his father before him. So he's got a lot of experience in addition to being an Avian Vet.

[Trees Gray]

I have now added "PREVENTION CHECK-UP'S AND FECALS" to this thread, as I think it is important for the health and performance of racing pigeons. Thank you "lawman" for the information you supplied.

Treesa

[DEEJAY7950]

Bump this thread, video of garlic being used in water and why!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7rJNy6qlI4