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Found Pigeon - not flyingI found a white pigeon on the ground, in the snow, not moving. It's feet seemed kinda stuck to the snow. It does not appear to be injured as there is no visible signs of injury. I live in Thunder Bay, Ontario and it is very cold outside -30 degrees with the windshield. I was concerned about the bird so I put it in a box and brought it in for warmth. I have tried following some of the guidance from other posting it has helped initaily about what to do. I do not know why it is not flying or what is the problem. I do not know much about caring for birds. I gave it water but have not actually seen him drink but he is eating. His poop varies in colour. Sometimes it is kinda white and other times it looks deep green. When I found him he has some light green poop that was kinda runny. I think he is a young bird and I don't know if he knows how to fly or perhaps he may be sick. I think he has some problems with his feet, there seems to be some small fine cuts. Can someone assist me in figuring out how I can this bird and what to do next?
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Joy...here are the initial life saving steps for you to take.
It is vital to stabilize an ill or injured pigeon or dove as soon as possible after rescue. Three basic steps should be followed. HEAT, ISOLATION & HYDRATION HEAT: A bird must be warmed gradually to a normal body temperature and be responsive (able to swallow). It is not unusual for a baby bird presented for rehabilitation to be very cold. (If a bird is unresponsive, please seek the assistance of an experienced rehabber or avian vet immediately.) Give the bird a quick, superficial examination. Unless there is a critical situation, e.g., (severe bleeding) all birds should be covered and placed on a heat source* (see below) for at least 20-30 minutes to bring the body temperature back to normal. If head trauma is suspected, do not place the bird on heat. ISOLATION: Allow the bird to stabilize in a quite, dark, warm area. While the bird is warming, take the opportunity to prepare any other items you may need to care for the bird, e.g., International Rehydrating Solution (recipe noted below) A 'COLD' BIRD SHOULD NEVER BE GIVEN FLUID OR FOOD, PERIOD!! HYDRATION: Fluids should be given after, and ONLY AFTER, the bird has been warmed, examined for any injuries & a determination is made as to the severity of his dehydration. All fluids should be warmed or at room temperature! Description and degrees, of hydrated and dehydrated birds A well hydrated bird will be very alert, have elastic skin, bright eyes, moist, plump membrane inside the mouth and well formed moist droppings. A moderately dehydrated bird will be less than fully alert, have dry, flaky skin, dull eyes, non-formed droppings and have a sticky membrane in the mouth. A severely dehydrated bird will be lethargic or unconscious, the skin will 'tent' when slightly pinched, have sunken eyes, dry or absent droppings and have dry membrane in the mouth. Depending on the cause and degree of dehydration, reversing this condition can take up to 24 hours. If the bird is alert, he may be rehydrated by mouth, using an eye dropper and putting drops along his beak every few minutes, making sure the fluids are room temperature or warmed slightly. Initially, a rehydrating solution should be administered. Plain water should not be given unless nothing else is available. If the bird is not swallowing on his own or fully alert, he must be given fluids under the skin (sub-Q method). WARNING!! This procedure should only be performed by an experienced rehabber or vet. Please follow these simple, basic, yet most important steps. The cells of the body simply don't work properly when dehydrated. Absolutely no digestive processes can take place if the gut CAN'T work. Absorption will not take place, food sits in the gut, undigested, and will eventually kill the bird. * Heat source suggestions: Towel lined heating pad, set on low Towel lined hot water bottle Low wattage lamp, directing the light into the cage. * Emergency heat source substitute: Fill an old sock about 2/3 full of rice. Microwave the sock for a few seconds. Making sure it isn't too hot, place it around the bird. * International Rehydrating Solution: To a cup of warm water add a pinch of salt & sugar, mix well. Use this solution to rehydrate by mouth. * Emergency rehydrating substitute: Pedialyte, unflavored. By following these basic steps you have done your best to stabilize your little feathered patient until further assistance is available.
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Charis If all the beasts were gone, men would die from great loneliness of spirit, for whatever happens to the beasts also happens to the man. Seattle 1736-1866  Another Life, Gone To The Birds! DO NO HARM Member, International Wildlife Rehabilitation Council
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He's a very pretty little thing, and banded. Probably got lost and didn't know how to find food.
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Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass........It's about learning to dance in the rain.
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that is a nice looking bird and by the color of the band that its definitely a 2010 young bird. i hope the bird recovers soon!
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You have done very, very well so far, Joy ! You saved your little pal's life, for sure.
Indeed, a domesticated pigeon, likely lost.....they usually have no clue how to survive in the Feral world...certainly not in a -30 degree Feral world. She/he does look pretty young, too. Good news that he is eating on his own. Did you happen to notice any external injuries to his body (besides the feet as you mentioned)? Scrapes, scabs, blood, punctures, abrasions, etc ??? The steps Charis outlines above are good. Last edited by Jaye; 19th January 2011 at 10:29 PM.
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He is doing Better!I took the pigeon to a country vet who examined him/her. He appears to be ok, no visible signs of injury. She figures he needs some food and water to get stronger. I have not seen him fly yet but he did flap his wings a bit a the vets to show off he wasn't too impressed with being examined. The tag says 2008 and so he is at least 2 years old. I saw other pigeons flying around today near the railway tracks where they probably eat from the rail way cars carrying wheat. I don't know how they survive in this bitter cold but I saw several huddled together next to windows on buildings. They appear to much more fatter and bigger than this little guy. I am little timed and nervous with him and I think he senses that. He wimpers when I put my hand in the box to clean out the papers. Tonight I put food down and he tried to peck my hand. He is trying to assert boundaries! I much to learn and would like to know how to safely handle the bird so he doesn't feel so threatened.
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He will act that way.. it is normal pigeon behavior.. so do not be scared or put off by it..lol.. just do what you need to do to take care of him and he will act that way as he is in an new unfamiliar place.. warmth, food and water and changing of his place to keep it clean.. most pigeons are put off by human hands.. but he will be happy he has a warm place and food to eat!!
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BEECH TREE KNOLL LOFT
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Very pretty bird
 Have you been able to trace the band to see who the owner is? I wouldn't release him. Are you planning on keeping him?
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Waynette  http://cottageontheseacoastloft.weebly.com/index.html "In Solitude there is Strength, In Strength there is Spirit"
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My 90 year old mother wants to keep the little pigeon!I have been told by a local wildlife reabilator that the banc around his leg means he belongs to someone and possible was a racing pigeon. He gave me two numbers to call but they were old contacts he had. I tried both numbers but only got one reply and he said he doesn't race or deal with pigeons any more so call the other guy. I have not heard back from the other guy either but had spoken with his wife a bit on the phone. So those are the only contacts I was able to find so far.
My mother is 90, saw the bird and fell in love with it and wants to keep it. I will give it a home, help in get strong and perhaps in the spring when it is warmer we can try and see what the bird wants to do. I really have a hard time imprisoning any animal as I think we all wish to be free. I found a used parrot cage for him just need to modify it to make a couple perches and floor so he is not standing in his own poop. He should have lots of room to spread his wings and excercise. What I noticed howeve it is a metal cage and as I went to measure it with my tape measure I noticed the cage was sort of a magnet or there was a magnetic field around it. I hope this does not affect the bird. It would take me some for me to build one myself and am not sure how to just yet. Are there any good indoor building plans for pigeon enclosurers?
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A pretty little youngster,probably lost as suggested in need of tlc.Food water and rest for a week or so should sort him out in a warm comfortable atmosphere.Good save would have perished had you not intervined.
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Hi. Thanks for the update.
Parrot cages are not a great choice for housing healthy pigeons, actually. They are not really 'stick perchers'. It's OK for an ill bird, one which needs to be kept sorta confined and quiet, but not too good for an everyday enclosure. If she/he is a Homer....and you intend to keep her/him, he will need something substantially larger and of different layout than the Parrot cage. Parrots like verticality because they're climbers...Pigeons are more ground foragers so they use horizontality more... Plenty of folks have posted plenty of photos here of their Pigeon enclosures (sometimes rather ...loftily...calling them 'lofts'  ). So if you search those terms and maybe poke around the Forum, you may well find some. Attached is one that member Pip Logan made fairly recently when I had inquired to him about possibly taking on of my rescues. This is a pretty good example of a minimal suitable enclosure. Keep in mind, if he's a Homer...he will need more than a caged life 24/7. He will need some outside time; in the very least in an indoor and safe place. Matter of fact, really, any kept Pigeon needs out-of-enclosure time.....So you may wanna research that a bit as well. Also...what is the band # ? Someone here can probably locate the proper contact info for you. Don't get worried...in likelihood, if you ever contacted the owner and it IS a Homing Pigeon, the owner will probably say they don't want it back (or will tell you to just release her and she will find her way home). Both replies basically mean the Homer owner has no intention of ever reclaiming the Pigeon. Last edited by Jaye; 27th April 2012 at 06:08 PM.
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Today is -37 degrees celcius!We seem to be getting colder temperatures as of late, this does not last long usually but it is difficult for any animal to deal with. If he will not fly I do see that I can put him outside at these temperatures. I don't know if he can fly or not at this time. He doesn't seem to like to be handled so taking him out of the cage and letting him roam around the house will be different for all of us. Perhaps when the weather gets warmer (in which I don't really know what is a reasonable to temperature to bring him outside again in) I can see if he will try and fly, perhaps even in my garage. I will probably need some coaching when that time comes.
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Try looking up the band # here.Good Luck.
http://www.crpu.ca/index.php?page=bandlists&pageid=66 Kurps
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Quote:
The drawer at the bottom makes it easier for you to clean, The two doors on front for easy access to feed, And the door at top for access to nesting area. Overall - good setup The original post about the pic is HERE
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Is it normal for pigeons to stand on one foot. I had noticed he had a few cuts in his feet in the beginning and I wonder if they are bothering him. Also, his feet were kinda stuck in the ice/snow, he could have frost bite on his feet as well. One or two of his toes seem gray not like the rest of foot, it is hard to tell as he has been standing in his poop too. Perhaps I should give him a bath and wash his feet.
What would be good for his feet to heal the cuts and possible frost bite?
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