Found White Pigeon-Long Island NY

[sasha008]

The abdomen feels small and tapered. The whipworm eggs look like Trichuris in the book I have, which could be a cause of anemia. Only thing we have for coccidia is Albon. We have sulfa-trim also but I never saw that used for coccidia.

I will give Val a call. Thanks for the number

[Pidgey]

Sulfadimethoxine: 25 mg/kg, PO, BID

Can you describe those worm eggs? Were there any operculums?

Pidgey

[Pidgey]

Lemon-Lime colored, with an operculum at either end like in the picture in this article:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whipworm

? Then they're probably actually Capillaria, which often go by the name "threadworm" and "hairworm" in pigeons. Were there a lot? How many per field? Or on the entire slide?

Pidgey

[sasha008]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whipworm

The eggs look just like these.

He just passed a semi formed poop. Emerald green color with yellowish urates.

I left a message on Val's answering machine.

[Pidgey]

What wormers do you have? You might try Ivermectin @ 0.2 mg/kg, PO, Once and keep an eye on the fecals for a few days. Panacur would be a bad idea on that bird in this shape.

Pidgey

[Pidgey]

You might also (if you've just got lots of time on your hands) run a fecal smear and see if you've got some Erythrocytes. That'd signal that you're getting some hemorrhaging into the lumen due to the damage from the Capillaria. Those just get worse and worse. If there are a lot in the fecal then you need to address them fairly quickly.

Pidgey

[Pidgey]

Incidentally, it's not uncommon to find a lost homer that's literally dying of a pan-microbial infection and pan-parasitic infestation. One of my vets told me that "if you wanna' look good in avian medicine, work on pigeons because they are hard to kill." That said, even though it looks bad, don't give up on this bird--he can still pull through.

Pidgey

[sasha008]

We don't have a lot of wormers on hand. We do have Ivermectin 1% solution injectable for cattle and swine. I only saw a couple of the whipworm eggs, lots of coccidia though.

So the Sulfadimethoxine is BID? Do I give a loading dose? Usually in cats and dogs it's SID and the first dose is double.

Right now he's standing in the cage on one foot a bit puffed up. He seems pretty observant of his surroundings.

[Pidgey]

I'll email you a *.pdf of the latest and greatest avian formulary but you can also sign up on this site:

www.ivis.org

...and see it for yourself once you're logged in and go to this specific page:

http://www.ivis.org/advances/harriso...apter.asp?LA=1

Have you started Baytril and Metronidazole already? I was thinking about how many different things might be going into this bird all at once.

Pidgey

[sasha008]

I started the Baytril and Metronidazole earlier and just gave the Albon. I put him in a covered cat carrier with a towel and a heat disk. He's not acting very afraid of me but gets just a little stressed with handled so I'll leave him be for a while.

How often should I give the oral electrolyte solution? Should I hold off on the Kaytee for a while?

[Pidgey]

Chances are that the Coccidiosis is the worst offender at the moment. With only a couple of Capillaria eggs on the slide I think I'd hold off on treating for that for a few days while you see if you can stabilize him first. If you start getting good solids out the back end, then you can start ramping up on the Kaytee slowly. You might be better to give small doses of it more often than to give bigger ones less frequently. It's always a difficult thing to determine. How much exactly have you given him and how long ago was it?

Pidgey

[sasha008]

Since 5pm tonight he's gotten about 15ccs of Kaytee and about 10ccs electrolytes. That was between 3 feedings. Too much? Too little? His latest poops looked more formed but still green with a lot of yellowish urates.

[Pidgey]

If food's going through and getting processed then you don't need to worry as much about the worst of the emaciation protocols. Also, Kaytee tends to come out the back end turning the urates towards a buff color although the actual poop is going to be somewhat of a green in most cases. Since you've already given him that much and it's been that long and there're formed poops coming out the back, I think you can probably dispense with the electrolytes and go with the thinned Kaytee and be just about as well off. Do you have much idea of how much dry Kaytee you've used in teaspoons' worth at this point?

Pidgey

[Pidgey]

I'll tell you where I'm going with this: it's next to impossible to find out exactly how many Calories are in a given amount of Kaytee. I've found a chart that gives the amounts for cornmeal and wheat flour and they're both real close to 450 calories per cup. That's probably a pretty good number to apply to Kaytee. So, a flat, dry teaspoon of the stuff would be about 10 Calories (actually a Kcal since a food Calorie is a thousand physics calories--a capital "C" versus a small "c"). I tried figuring it out earlier and was looking at about 60 Calories for a 24 hour period.

Pidgey

[TAWhatley]

Originally Posted by Pidgey

I'll tell you where I'm going with this: it's next to impossible to find out exactly how many Calories are in a given amount of Kaytee. I've found a chart that gives the amounts for cornmeal and wheat flour and they're both real close to 450 calories per cup. That's probably a pretty good number to apply to Kaytee. So, a flat, dry teaspoon of the stuff would be about 10 Calories (actually a Kcal since a food Calorie is a thousand physics calories--a capital "C" versus a small "c"). I tried figuring it out earlier and was looking at about 60 Calories for a 24 hour period.

Pidgey

See page 10 of this: http://www.iwrc-online.org/journal/journal4-17.pdf

Terry