Severe loss of feathers???

[greg]

I just noticed today that our Miss Pigeon has lost most of the feathers around her neck. She's been losing feathers the last couple of weeks. I figured no big deal, just moulting. But this loss of feathers is severe. Her neck and back of head are exposed.

Other than being a little skinny, I haven't noticed any particular problems. She went a while without grit (didn't know she was out and kids didn't tell me ), but I have put some egg shells in her food and she now has grey shell type grit.

I usually give her red grit but the local feed stores have not had it available lately.

We've had her for two years and this has not happened before. Nuitrition issue?

Please help!

[This message has been edited by greg (edited June 05, 2004).]

[maryco]

Hello,

I don't think the lack of grit will cause this problem.. it's very strange though.
Do you notice any other symptoms? Depression.. not eating well..etc?

Can you get a pic? I noticed that with my birds in the molt they will lose "patches" of feathers especially around the neck area.. is it any worse in your bird?

Mary



[This message has been edited by maryco (edited June 05, 2004).]

[greg]

What does depression look like? She seems OK. Seems to be eating OK. She's lost most/all of the feathers from the back of her head down her neck. It does look like there are replacement feathers coming in.

She's lost feathers in this area before, but this the first time she's lost this many.

I'll post a picture tomorrow morning.


[This message has been edited by greg (edited June 05, 2004).]

[dano7]

If she is molting, you should see other feathers - a couple of flight feathers at least somewhere, and you will see a pile of feathers under her night perch at times of heavy molt.

You will want to rule out external parasites. Look for holes in the feathers or traumatized red or purplish look to the skin of the defeathered area.

If she is feather picking it is a symptom not a disease; could be a sign of poor health, poor diet, or of stress or other psychological triggers as previously suggested (boredom and pent up energy in cage situation, a bad wing clip job, attention getting mechanism).

Treesa may know a bird psychologist, and here is a check list for diet and preventive medication:

The heart of the pigeon diet is a seed mix which has known and generally accepted proportions. A ballpark guideline is 11-17% protein and 4-11% fat. Possible items, but not all of the possible items in the mixes are Popcorn (not popped), Trapper peas, R/C Wheat, Maple Peas, Buffalo Peas, Safflower seeds, Austrian Peas, Oat Groats, vetch, Paddy Rice, Small Yellow Corn, R/C Red and White Milo, Red Prosso Millet, Flax Seed, Malt Barley, Common Lentils, Buckwheat, Small Black Oil Sunflower, and a very few peanuts (raw/unsalted).

Other must have essentials are greens/carrots and an avian vitamin everyday (if they don’t eat greens keep giving them and eventually they will). People in this forum like Prime vitamin which goes in the water and has a probiotic. When they get around nine months old they will start to show an interest in a good multi-element grit but they should have this available at all times.

Though the following are not necessary everyday, they are also essential to optimum health, so once you get these basics down, other things people use are various forms of garlic, brewers yeast, various oils (fish, cod liver, olive, etc.), various teas, Apple Cider Vinegar (a few drops for a single bird or a Tsp per gallon in the water), electrolytes, bits of animal protein (mash a pinch of dried dog food and mix with the seed), good soil/clay and other supplements. All these items are an attempt to approximate the bird’s ideal wild diet. If all this is daunting, you may try various formulations of pellets made for pigeons. This can cover most bases but the various processes used to make the pellets use high heat which is a not good as many nutrients do not survive this.

While we are at it, most people medicate for canker and worms, some vaccinate for pox and PMV depending on the frequency in your area. You will get quality meds online from Jedds, Foy’s, Siegels, Global Pigeon Supplies, or the Australian Pigeon Company. Meds from pet stores are often inadequate and getting them from the vet will be expensive.

[greg]

dano7... thank you for your excellent information. Your reply has triggered a couple of thoughts as to the cause.

Possibly... boredom - my teenage son cares for Miss Pigeon. He loves animals and does a great job with her. But he's just graduated from high school and has SO much going on. I know she is not getting the attention she used to (time out of cage being held, etc). She could easily have pent up energy or trying to get attention. She loves attention and loves to be held.

It's been a while (see above) since we've put toys or other things in her cage to keep her occupied.

I do give her a pigeon specific seed mix and she likes it. But other than grit and occasional egg shells, that's it. I'm going to give her some carrots today.

[dano7]

You will have to be patient with vegetables. At first birds will ignore it or toss it around, but later, to your surprise, they will eat it. It helps to place it down first before the seeds so they can at least consider it. And the only way I have found to get vegies to a bite size is to use an electric slicer not blender.

If you get some Prime vitamin for the water, you will cover a lot of bases without much added time or expense.

[This message has been edited by dano7 (edited June 06, 2004).]

[Trees Gray]

Greg,

I have a pigeon right now who has lost his feathers around the neck area. With help from several people on this sight and Siegel pigeons, and Foys, it was determined that this bird has scaley mites around the neck.

This is an area where the pigeon has a hard time pruning himself. That is suspicious in itself, and the bird acts just fine. You can't see the mites but they are there.Also, does the pigeon have scaley looking legs? The mites suck out the blood from the feather at the base of the skin and under it, and thatis why the feathers die and fall out.

If it is determined that your bird does have mites, you can use Moxidectin as I was told it works better than Ivermectin. If you already have Scalex, you can use that topically, around the neck and on the feet.

I was told not to see any dramatic changes in the feathers, until after the bird molts.

Hope this helps.

Treesa