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Update on my Pigeons that DiedI had two pass away on Sunday, unexpectedly-My "boyfriend" and "Mighty Bird".the only two I was bonded with. They only showed signs of sickness for 1-2 days. Spoke with Terry the other day.
Update: Talked to Foy's Pigeon supply...he said there are two viruses for which there is no cure /treatment (only treatment of secondary infections) that are killing pigeons all over the country. Adeno virus and Circo Virus. This may be a possibility. For $20.00 they will check two fecal samples for parasites, cocci, and many other pigeon diseases. I should find out something today. Paratyphoid/Chlamydia(Ornithosis) are two I'm suspecting if not these viruses. I am treating w/ Baytril (this will work for E-coli, Paratyphoid and Ornithosis) and it was recommended to follow with Canker treatment afterwards. When they have both the virus and the secondary, many times it's too much for them, but treating the secondary, may save their lives. My birds have not been out for about a year, so I am thinking it's more likely something that developed in the coop (paratyhpoid) possibly from roaches and/or mice (recent evidence of mice). It's also been very rainy and it's possible some seed got wet and moldy, although, I didn not observe that. This could have been brought in from the two racing birds I found about 10 months ago. Birds can be carriers of Paratyphoid for a long time, if never treated. Will post an update. Until I know something, I'm keeping a close eye, keeping the coop clean and treating with Baytril. I'm still so heartbroken. ![]() |
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Hey BruceHI Bruce! Well, this was two birds in one day. I also lost one two months ago, unexplained. So I believe there is something going on. They've been in the frig (put in approximately 2 hours after death). How long can you keep them before they can't test them? I may do this, however, since I was very bonded with these two, I wanted to bury them. I will call them though, thanks for the info!
I may need a couple of hens if you have any young ones. Their mates have no one left...all mine were paired up. They mourned over their losses...it was very sad. I let them see their mate for a few minutes so they'd know they died and didn't just disappear. |
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ThanksThanks Bruce. Let me know when you can part with two young hens. I added on a huge aviary just recently, so they got to experience daily bathing and sunning. I will soon attempt to let them out again, now that they've had full view of their surroundings. It's been a year now and the ones I have left, managed to find their way home when they got lost the first time.
Do you have any young ones now? I want to treat with Baytril another 12 days, so I could take them then. Just let me know. Thanks again. |
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You might try sulmet. It workswell on cocsidioses. And e coli. About 8. dollars a bottle at most vet supply . Mixes in the water. about three caps to a gallon. Parathyphoid If your birds were carrying it, Would show up with swollen joints. And such. Have not seen many racing homers with that. If you have cool damp conditions cocsid. can grow. But in summer months it is rare . As heat and light deture it.. Did they go down on weight fast. And get loose green droppings. Or did they drop in weight and could not fly and droppings seemed fare. My brother in law in LA. had problems like this. It after I spoke to him about the birds and the loft. They were eating fouled grain. I told him to make a box about 6 inches larger both sides and ends then put hardware clothe over set his feeder on it. Any spilled grain would drop in there and the birds could not get it. Easy to clean out. Just dump it. He works two weeks on two weeks off. And his son sometimes over feeds. Best way Is to put just enough grain down that the birds can clean up in ten minutes. Two times a day. If you can not try the other method. And hens need grit. I use oyster sheel tablets on them befor the breeding season. For five days. To build there calcium up. Lack of this will stress a hen enough they will go down or die dureing or just after laying sometimes. Dont know if any of what I said will help. But works for me.
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Hi ReLee-Thanks for all your input. I do have that treatment for Cocci- but can you mix this with Baytril or do I need to wait? Oyster Sheel Tablets...are these something you give orally or mix in with food? Where do you buy yours? I often wondered if they were lacking calcium from many years of egg laying. They get the pigeon grit daily and I thought that covered them with the calcium. But these both were hens...but to die on the same day? Strange.
The molded seed is another thing I thought of. Good advice on the mesh thing. I will try this. I've seen the pigeons pick up seed off the floor so I know there's always that possibility of eating older seed. I do try to feed enough for just the day, but they kick out some too that gets on the floor. I would like to know what it was, even if the Baytril prevents any more incidences. That way I will know to look for things in the future. HOpefully, the samples will show something. p.s.-They did lose weight rapidly. That was another thing I didn't mention. Over the past few weeks, I've noticed that a lot of my birds were losing some weight. I thought maybe they were avoiding the feed because I've had trouble with fire ants getting in the coop. I dont' want to put anything in the coop though because it would be poisonous. These two had loose green droppings towards the end. They both could fly up to the 12' high perches in the aviary. They were wanting sun before they died. Last edited by dpowell; 29th June 2004 at 03:03 PM. |
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I would like to make one suggeston. It's impossible to tell what is going on if there is something in the coop. If you see a bird that shows symptoms of anything, would you be willing to isolate him in a separate cage and take the droppings for testing? If something is isolated and diagnosed, you could then treat all of your birds for the same illness.
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Fred, that's what I was trying to do. I was trying to find another bird that may have had diarrhea and couldn't. I did trace one dropping however and was able to get that sample sent off to Foy's. I am hoping they discover something. But I was afraid I lost my other two because i didn't start them on the Baytril sooner and the remaining, so far are doing okay. I hate to treat blindly, but I was very concerned I had an epidemic going on and wanted to start something right away, and Baytril knocks out a lot of things. I've been told that it's okay to mix the cocci and canker meds with the liquid baytril, is this true? Anyone?Oh, and thanks Fred. I too like to be cautious and hesitated putting the two on Baytril for that very reason. Turns out though, they didn't have much time and I was worried the others may not either.
Last edited by dpowell; 29th June 2004 at 03:23 PM. |
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We should talk openly about this and to be honest, you have a problem in the coop. That means you can’t bring in any new birds even of you quarantine them. Even if the new birds are illness free, they can contract whatever is going on. You can’t send any birds out for obvious reasons so the coop is now quarantined.
The two birds that died were probably sick for much longer than two days. If this is paratyphoid, they could have been sick for months without showing symptoms. Flock birds mask their illness until they can no longer hide them so these two birds had some illness way before they exhibited symptoms. I’m pretty sure this is not PMV or you would have known from the neck twisting I don’t think this is circovirus because that usually hits parrots. It can happen in pigeons but is a fairly rare occurrence. I don’t think this is avian flu because it has been fairly well controlled in this country. There is now a mutated strain in Asia and if comes here, people will die. Basically, my guess is that you have a bacterial infection in the coop. Going on that assumption (which could be wrong), you need to dose the entire coop with an antibiotic. The only way to do it with a coop is to put the medication into their drinking water. Unless you have a very few birds, this is about the only way you can go. Baytril, although the most efficacious drug, is very expensive. If this is paratyphoid, there are over 2000 strains of salmonella and Baytril is the drug that hits most of them. The next best drug is Clavamox, which is a combination of Amoxycillin and a drug that prevents the penicillin from being destroyed by staph bacteria. Without a diagnosis, giving another water-soluble antibiotic may not work at all. The water treatment is not the best way of giving antibiotics because you can’t control the dose the birds get. It depends on how much they drink. Some bacterial illnesses even reduce the bird’s thirst so this is all very chancy. Regardless of whatever I wrote, you need to put an antibiotic into the water. You might as well add sulphur based one because they are the easiest to obtain and are very water-soluble. At least you are doing something while waiting for a diagnosis from Foys. The only other suggestion I have is to wash the coop down with a 10% Clorox solution to kill as much infection as possible. If this is coccidiosis, a sulphur drug will work so at least you are covering some bases. We both know that this may get worse before it gets better and we are both very concerned about the situation. Please keep us updated on this. Last edited by fred128; 29th June 2004 at 05:02 PM. Reason: Additional information |
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I believe Fred is talking sense and I underline a few points in particular:
* there is a problem in the loft and you saw the end product of something that has been going wrong for some time. * The whole loft needs to be shut down, cleaned, then disinfectected. The exotic, mystery virus is not as probable as the typical bacteria; it comes down to loft management. I hope you turn it around and grow prosperous. |
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Just a couple of points...
Why not have the dead birds posted? To my thinking a more accurate way to determine cause of death. Donna, there are a few avian vets in Austin (and probably Round Rock) that will do a fecal exam - just call around. If you need a disinfectant call me. I have Virkon-S that I can give you. It's a viricide that was used in the UK to cleanse and disinfect for foot and mouth disease. Bleach will work too. I guess you got the word - you need to clean that coop really well. PLUS... plug all the holes. No mice or rats should be getting into your loft. Your pigeons will eat their feces and that's no bueno. And no moldy feed. You've got a number of problems working here. Fred, as far as I know avian influenza does not affect pigeons. However, I don't think it's under control. In Texas, there was an high pathogenic outbreak in April in a commercial flock not far from San Antonio. Currently, there is a low path outbreak in Sulphur Springs, NE of Dallas - in a commercial flock and a backyard flock. The state's animal health agency is working to eradicate it. This year, there's been one in British Columbia where thousands of birds were "depoped", and there's been a couple of AI outbreaks on the US eastcoast. Donna, Fred's right. We can't even think about new birds until your problem is licked. I would wait at least a couple of months before any additions - maybe a bit longer. Talk to you soon. |
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Birdy,
Thanks for the correction. You're right and I wasn't thinking. Pigeons don't contract nor transmit avian influenza. That was an important correction. What I should have addressed is Chlamydia from the original post. That is not paratyphoid but is the organism that causes psitticosis. It's a possible source for the infection in the coop however, it starts off as a respiratory infection and there was no mention of any symptoms of a respiratory nature. It's a combination viral/bacterial infection. Again, since there was no mention of respiratory symptoms, I think we can rule that one out too. I don't know why but my gut instinct is pointing towards either paratyphoid or coccidiosis. Last edited by fred128; 29th June 2004 at 07:15 PM. |
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If other birds are off weight also. But acting healthy. And you have a fire ant problem too I would still try the sulmet. Agin it does not sound like parathyphoid. Clean your Loft. After boxing the birds. Yes just bleach water in a spray bottle will work . Then they have crystals that can be put around the loft to keep the fire ants away. And will last several months. Worm all the birds also. And oyster shell tabs can be bought at any walmart drug store ect. they are tabs and you give them by beak. . I think the problem may go away . You may lose a bird or two that may be to weak. Treat birds for five days. scip a week then treat agin. I still lean towards cocsid, or ecoli.
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