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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I’ve noticed the last 3-4 days that my pigeon’s poo is looking cloudy. It’s usually very good. I thought it was his cage (unhygienic) so I cleaned it. I noticed that he might be pooping less... could it be constipation? I think he’s sleeping less and he seems a bit stressed.
Here’s a photo
Wood Ingredient Chemical compound Food Metal
 

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Hi all, I’ve noticed the last 3-4 days that my pigeon’s poo is looking cloudy. It’s usually very good. I thought it was his cage (unhygienic) so I cleaned it. I noticed that he might be pooping less... could it be constipation? I think he’s sleeping less and he seems a bit stressed.
Here’s a photo
Is this a racing bird? This type of excess urine can be caused in the morning prior to feeding, of if a bird is nervous and disturbed by something, that sounds like it as you say pigeon is more active than normal. But at the same time "rice water" poops can be a sign of a inflammation in the bowel caused by a pathogen. So it is best to take the poop to be checked at the vet. Unhygienic conditions will not cause this poop as if bird is stress by filth, but unhygienic conditions will cause disease so always try to keep the place clean. If that is cardboard and it is not swapped for fresh sheets regularly it can easily mold, or even help bacteria develop on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This pigeon isn’t a racing pigeon, he’s domesticated (pet). He could be stressed as he’s surrounded by two cats, and I have to force feed him regularly as he isn’t able to feed himself due to a permanent brain injury. However I’ve been feeding him for two months now and it’s only this week that his urine is cloudy.
 

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This pigeon isn’t a racing pigeon, he’s domesticated (pet). He could be stressed as he’s surrounded by two cats, and I have to force feed him regularly as he isn’t able to feed himself due to a permanent brain injury. However I’ve been feeding him for two months now and it’s only this week that his urine is cloudy.
If the pigeon has difficulties feeding because of PMV or neurological salmonella you can try deep big bowl of food full of seeds. let it practice feeding, it is remarkable how many pigeons learn how to eat again. It is better that force feeding.
Water is a bit more problematic but also under close observation can happen.

What are you feeding. Long term use of hand feeding formula can be problematic especially for adult birds as it contains a lot of energy, and usually either high fat or high protein. This can damage liver or kidneys.feces looks pale which can be due to pellets or hand feeding formula.

And back to poop, good to check it especially if you have cats at home. Sometimes things can jump over.
 

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Is this a racing bird? This type of excess urine can be caused in the morning prior to feeding, of if a bird is nervous and disturbed by something, that sounds like it as you say pigeon is more active than normal. But at the same time "rice water" poops can be a sign of a inflammation in the bowel caused by a pathogen. So it is best to take the poop to be checked at the vet. Unhygienic conditions will not cause this poop as if bird is stress by filth, but unhygienic conditions will cause disease so always try to keep the place clean. If that is cardboard and it is not swapped for fresh sheets regularly it can easily mold, or even help bacteria develop on it.
I agree with SilverFeral, what I see is bowel inflammation which could be caused by a pathogen or food.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the pigeon has difficulties feeding because of PMV or neurological salmonella you can try deep big bowl of food full of seeds. let it practice feeding, it is remarkable how many pigeons learn how to eat again. It is better that force feeding. Water is a bit more problematic but also under close observation can happen. What are you feeding. Long term use of hand feeding formula can be problematic especially for adult birds as it contains a lot of energy, and usually either high fat or high protein. This can damage liver or kidneys.feces looks pale which can be due to pellets or hand feeding formula. And back to poop, good to check it especially if you have cats at home. Sometimes things can jump over.
I I always leave a deep bowl of budgie seeds mixed with pigeon seeds (small seeds are easier for him to pick up). I've seen him pick some up but drop it - he's still learning co-ordination and how to swallow. I'm a bit stuck at the moment because he isn't eating seeds, so I'm having to hand feed him formula 2x a day. The formula I'm feeding him is for hatchlings (0-20 days), so it's definitely not the right stuff. But I'm not sure what to do. I think I might force feed him half the formula + seeds and then just formula at night, hoping that he'll recognise the seeds as food. Should I do this today given that his weight is stable? He's currently 420 grams.
 

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I I always leave a deep bowl of budgie seeds mixed with pigeon seeds (small seeds are easier for him to pick up). I've seen him pick some up but drop it - he's still learning co-ordination and how to swallow. I'm a bit stuck at the moment because he isn't eating seeds, so I'm having to hand feed him formula 2x a day. The formula I'm feeding him is for hatchlings (0-20 days), so it's definitely not the right stuff. But I'm not sure what to do. I think I might force feed him half the formula + seeds and then just formula at night, hoping that he'll recognise the seeds as food. Should I do this today given that his weight is stable? He's currently 420 grams.
Let it practice eating. I wouldn’t force seed down his throat. Continue with formula in the morning and let him try the seed on his own. In the meantime try to find some frozen peas and thaw them out 30 peas, 3 times a day, unless you replace one meal with formula. Then it would be . Formula. 30 thawed green peas. 30 thawed green peas. Try to get as many of the 30 down as you can but monitor the crop to make sure it isn’t getting impacted.
 

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I I always leave a deep bowl of budgie seeds mixed with pigeon seeds (small seeds are easier for him to pick up). I've seen him pick some up but drop it - he's still learning co-ordination and how to swallow. I'm a bit stuck at the moment because he isn't eating seeds, so I'm having to hand feed him formula 2x a day. The formula I'm feeding him is for hatchlings (0-20 days), so it's definitely not the right stuff. But I'm not sure what to do. I think I might force feed him half the formula + seeds and then just formula at night, hoping that he'll recognise the seeds as food. Should I do this today given that his weight is stable? He's currently 420 grams.
For the formula you can try to find pigeon pellet food. It a complete food for adult pigeons and looks like granules. You can grind them up in a food processor or anything of that sort, and if you have that wide neck syringe it will go trough easily for feeding. This is just for instead of formula. If not you can sift the grinded pellets 2 times and use that. As for seeds in his bowl add more larger seeds, use defrosted peas as Vicious explained, and even these pigeon granules. I've observed pigeons learn easier with larger seeds and especially granules. In first he will pick the large seed and his head will go all crazy and he will toss the seed over his back. But once he overcomes this and finally manage to get the food to the back of the throat, larger things are easier for him to push back and swallow. When I say larger things I mean like corn kernels, peas, and pigeon granules, not something he can choke on. If he eats pigeon granules just be careful that he also needs to drink water and they expand. So give in the begging just 5-6 so he practices, but not as main food untill he eats and drinks on his own. Also he will be more motivated to eat if he has larger seed because a few larger seeds eaten will provide some satiation, as budgie seed has very little energy value to pigeons. Corn, especially red one if you can find it, sunflower seeds, large grain, peas and granules would be better to practice.

Finally to know if he is really eating on his own look at the poop. Pigeon digests everything in 2 hours, so you should see, after feeding, that he has cleared out of the formula - pale feces, and if he is managing to eat, the feces will be still full - meaning you can see its coils, it is not just a litle bit of colored mucus, or small pieces of it, but it will change color to deep green or brown, depending on what he is eating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For the formula you can try to find pigeon pellet food. It a complete food for adult pigeons and looks like granules. You can grind them up in a food processor or anything of that sort, and if you have that wide neck syringe it will go trough easily for feeding. This is just for instead of formula. If not you can sift the grinded pellets 2 times and use that. As for seeds in his bowl add more larger seeds, use defrosted peas as Vicious explained, and even these pigeon granules. I've observed pigeons learn easier with larger seeds and especially granules. In first he will pick the large seed and his head will go all crazy and he will toss the seed over his back. But once he overcomes this and finally manage to get the food to the back of the throat, larger things are easier for him to push back and swallow. When I say larger things I mean like corn kernels, peas, and pigeon granules, not something he can choke on. If he eats pigeon granules just be careful that he also needs to drink water and they expand. So give in the begging just 5-6 so he practices, but not as main food untill he eats and drinks on his own. Also he will be more motivated to eat if he has larger seed because a few larger seeds eaten will provide some satiation, as budgie seed has very little energy value to pigeons. Corn, especially red one if you can find it, sunflower seeds, large grain, peas and granules would be better to practice.

Finally to know if he is really eating on his own look at the poop. Pigeon digests everything in 2 hours, so you should see, after feeding, that he has cleared out of the formula - pale feces, and if he is managing to eat, the feces will be still full - meaning you can see its coils, it is not just a litle bit of colored mucus, or small pieces of it, but it will change color to deep green or brown, depending on what he is eating.
This is really helpful, thanks!! I’ll give the pellets a go. I think I’ll blend the pellets, add water and feed it to him in a syringe. Would this be alright?
 

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This is really helpful, thanks!! I’ll give the pellets a go. I think I’ll blend the pellets, add water and feed it to him in a syringe. Would this be alright?
Yes. Just make sure they are well hydrated, blend the grinded pellets with water, leave it for 3 minutes then add some more water if needed, so it is like ketchup.
Good luck with everything and thank you for caring for a disabled pigeons. I know that it is very difficult but pigeons are amazing and it can sometimes take months but they can recover. I currently have a pet pigeon that has been 100% paralyzed, even his crop was not working. It took months for him just to walk and eat, but now he can do almost everything only his balance is a bet affected. Pigeons are amazing fighetrs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you for your help and your good wishes, I wish you luck too. Looking after a paralysed pigeon can’t be easy, it’s hard work. I appreciate and respect all you’ve done for him. And I’m glad to hear that he’s doing well!

I’ll keep you posted/let you know how it goes, thanks again!
 
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