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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
I couldn't stand it and I rang up that practitioner who gave me albendazole. In his defence he said that now albendazole is completely safe. He said to me that u r talking about age old albendazole which now comes in way more refined form. He said that vets prescribe albendazole because modern albendazole is safe and effective with negligible side effects. He sent me this info via e-mail which he claims to be sent to him by an experienced avian vet. He said I will still advise u to use albendazole any day.
***Deworming***
Worms in the gut(intestines) of the pigeons makes the pigeons weak and reduce their performance. They absorb the nutrients from the food eaten by the pigeons. They are attached to the walls of the intestines.* When they multiply in large numbers, they block the intestines preventing the movement of food*inside the gut (intestines). *Sometimes, the worms also come out of the vent along with the*bird droppings.
Treatment: -Albomar (Albendazole) is the drug of choice to deworm the pigeons. It should be dissolved in water and given to all the pigeons except breeding pairs who are raising chicks.* Mix 10 drops of Albomar*solution to 1 litre drinking water. This diluted Albomar solution can be given to 15 birds. It should be given continuosly for three days. If you have more birds, then increase the dosage according to the ratio given above.* If the worms are in large numbers, you will see many worms in the bird droppings on the first day when they defecate. The worms are expelled only after 24 hours through*vent/anus when the birds defecate. Deworming is recommended every six months.* Do not use sand/soil as the flooring material in the loft as the worm eggs are ingested by the pigeons which are present in the soil when they eat sand.
Charis,pls don't even for a second think that I'm offending the information which u have surfaced. I just posted it for ur kind info,in case u want to know.
I'm definitely gonna go with ur advise and never gonna use albendazole again without any doubt. Don't wanna take any chances with my beloved birds
The droncit+ tablets I'm gonna use are meant for dogs and cats. Are they safe for pigeons? As they don't come specially made for pigeons :eek: Thnx
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
Hi Mudsi,
Well,if you wanna hear the truth....I know its Cocky...!but I started many threads here on PT when I was new here to cross check my knowledge but....the experience wasn't as great as I thought it would be. And I always acted that I know nothing so that the other members can tell me what they know(tiny details). BUT....

I never joined this site to become an active member but PT is irresistable as PT talks pigeons and I love pigeons.
Fear God,Truth to be told,I still have problem of "those tiny worm eggs" in my pigeons droppings. One after another,I Personal Msged pic of those tiny eggs to 5 of THE biggest names here on PT also but.....

the problem still persists...
 

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Hello. I thought that tape worm eggs are microscopic, they survive our disinfectants because of their hard shell, they survive a long time like six month? Only way is to burn( torch the loft floor, feeders, and perches after the treatment.
So, one needs a plan to fight the tape worms and others. I do not have one yet, but it sound like this: an external debugger, then repeated in required time. An internal dewormer which should be repeated as recommended. Loft scraped and perches dishes and floor flame torched. Lastly, the wormer needs to be replaced with a different solution so the worms do not get used to it.
I individually dose my birds for internal and external bugs. I also have seen those droncit wormers at the pet store for mamalls and was going to look into the dosage for pigeons. Maybe mosquitos can also give pigeons tape worms. Good luck fighting the parasites. If you are worried about weight loss, then look into peanuts as a supplement. I thought Charis was a female member, sorry.
Addition: I forgot that i read somewhere that crawling bugs need to be eliminated by spraying the loft with an insectiside: which one: permethrin I think. Thanks.
Question to Brocky: Does you pigeon feed contain any crawling instects? If yes: they need to go. Putting garlic in the feed or some D.E. powder might work. Or putting the whole food in the freezer for a day may also do it. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
hamlet said:
Hello. I thought that tape worm eggs are microscopic, they survive our disinfectants because of their hard shell, they survive a long time like six month? Only way is to burn( torch the loft floor, feeders, and perches after the treatment.
So, one needs a plan to fight the tape worms and others. I do not have one yet, but it sound like this: an external debugger, then repeated in required time. An internal dewormer which should be repeated as recommended. Loft scraped and perches dishes and floor flame torched. Lastly, the wormer needs to be replaced with a different solution so the worms do not get used to it.
I individually dose my birds for internal and external bugs. I also have seen those droncit wormers at the pet store for mamalls and was going to look into the dosage for pigeons. Maybe mosquitos can also give pigeons tape worms. Good luck fighting the parasites. If you are worried about weight loss, then look into peanuts as a supplement. I thought Charis was a female member, sorry.
Addition: I forgot that i read somewhere that crawling bugs need to be eliminated by spraying the loft with an insectiside: which one: permethrin I think. Thanks.
Question to Brocky: Does you pigeon feed contain any crawling instects? If yes: they need to go. Putting garlic in the feed or some D.E. powder might work. Or putting the whole food in the freezer for a day may also do it. Thanks.
Hi hamlet,
Dronicit plus,drontal plus dewormers are also unsafe for pigeons.

To your question,I've tried everything but....no success
 

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Hello. I thought that tape worm eggs are microscopic, they survive our disinfectants because of their hard shell, they survive a long time like six month? Only way is to burn( torch the loft floor, feeders, and perches after the treatment.

Tapeworm eggs are microscopic, but the segments dropped by the worm are not. They are easily seen in droppings. Burning or torching the floors isn't necessary, as it isn't in eating the eggs that give your birds tapeworm. The tapeworm needs an intermediate host, such as a flea, snail, slug, or earthworm. A tapeworm egg is so microscopic that a flea larva will eat it. The bird then eats the flea or worm or snail or whatever, and the tapeworm continues it's development inside the bird. So by keeping bugs off your birds, it is helpful in preventing tapeworm. Of course, birds can still pick up tapeworm when they are out and pecking around, and pick up these things that harbor the worm.

So, one needs a plan to fight the tape worms and others. I do not have one yet, but it sound like this: an external debugger, then repeated in required time. An internal dewormer which should be repeated as recommended. Loft scraped and perches dishes and floor flame torched. Lastly, the wormer needs to be replaced with a different solution so the worms do not get used to it.
So flaming isn't necessary.................just keep a clean loft.

I individually dose my birds for internal and external bugs. I also have seen those droncit wormers at the pet store for mamalls and was going to look into the dosage for pigeons. Maybe mosquitos can also give pigeons tape worms.
Mosquitos don't infect by biting a bird. No bird can get tapeworm from being biten. They have to ingest the insect that is carrying the tapeworm.

Good luck fighting the parasites. If you are worried about weight loss, then look into peanuts as a supplement. I thought Charis was a female member, sorry.

She is.

Addition: I forgot that i read somewhere that crawling bugs need to be eliminated by spraying the loft with an insectiside: which one: permethrin I think. Thanks.
Question to Brocky: Does you pigeon feed contain any crawling instects? If yes: they need to go. Putting garlic in the feed or some D.E. powder might work. Or putting the whole food in the freezer for a day may also do it. Thanks.

I have read that tapeworm eggs will die if frozen at 14 degrees for a week or 2 will kill them.

.........................................................................................
 

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brocky bieber

I had used Albendenzole based dewormer for almost 3 years.
3 drops for a fully grown pigeon, second dose after 12-14 days.
The cycle is repeated every 6 months.
The brand name is Albomar.

However due to the same recommendations that it is bad to pigeons, I had switched to Ivermectin, dosage schedule remains the same. Yet I am personally not that convinced on the side effects of Albendenzole.

What you have to take care is that the feed and drink does not get spoiled with the droppings.

Pigeon eating its on egg shell after hatching is not, if that seems to be a problem. You can provide crushed chicken eggs, cuttle fish bone or a commercial calcium supplement with Vitamin D.

Edit: The dosage will depend on the concentration of the medicine you are using, it will be mentioned on the label
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Oh ok.
I've also used albendazole but its unsafe for pigeons :(. I've tried every deworming med that's available.
But many meds are costly so I was asking. Right now I'm using Pfizers BandyStar,a combination of praziquantel and ivermectin. Its costly but safe for pigeons to treat tapes
 

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If you are using all of those dewormers and not getting a result, then I would start looking at other things going on, the birds are getting reinfested. why is that? do they soil their food and water with their droppings? do you have too many pigeons overcrowding? do you really clean every day? scrape all the droppings out of the loft. that is important esp in humid hot rainy weather. some birds can pick eggs up if they forage allot or drink from stagnet pools. IMO I think you need to educate yourself of the life cycle and then perhaps think of what or why there is a source that keeps going even if the birds are treated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Yep,I've considered all the factors. Not scraping out daily maybe the problem.Birds are on a lockdown for months because of on going falcon issue so they aren't foraging out side. Drinker and feeder is absolutely droppings free.
Life cycle of tapes is 21 days so dewormed after required number of days thrice and cleaned thoroughly thereafter. I think,there's no loop holes in my strategies but somehow birds are getting reinfected. Only thing I haven't tried is freezing up the feed. From dec onwards temps here stay low,near freezing so feed is automatically frozen up still no success.
The situation has bogged my mind.
There are no signs of flies or insects in the loft due to unfavorable winter temps and no ectoparasites are seen on birds/near loft. These problems will start in spring(march) but I don't let them flourish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Even torched the floor as I've concrete floor with brick walls as worm eggs can only be destroyed by torching. Feed is also stored with an insecticide mixed with it but...
 

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Even torched the floor as I've concrete floor with brick walls as worm eggs can only be destroyed by torching. Feed is also stored with an insecticide mixed with it but...
You are storing your feed with insecticide mixed with it. Sound like this is a bad idea. What if it kills your birds. Plus normally you never have to worm the birds every 21 days. Some people do that 1 time a month during race season. but MOSt do not I only wormed 2 times a years. NEVER had any problems. Does your feed get weavels in it. Try straining your feed to check. You could even put it in a sealed plastic bag. Can you take a bird to a vet to get a study done. As it sounds like a major problem in you birds. Do you use ACV it would help. ivermac. Cattle wormer 2 to 3 drops most often kills many type of worms. You said you have used it. Did you recently change your screen name from Brocky bieber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Yep changed the user name to my (part)real name.

Yes Weavils are a problem in summers so I store feed in an air tight container with insecticide but I wash the feed before feeding it to birds. I would pull out a kilo or 2 of feed wash it good and then dry it. I don't use insecticide from dec to feb as low temps donot let the bugs mutiply.
What I find is that most dewormers are toxic to pigeons and doves so I use specific dewormers. I know too much deworming is bad for birds but what you gotta do when you see some in droppings?
Main problem is that vets are not helping. They don't wanna WASTE their time on pigeons rather DEVOTE their time on productive livestock,as they put it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Some people talk of using boric acid in feed in small quantities and say it don't harm birds. Thoughts???

What's your way of managing weavils?
 

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Maybe they aren't tapeworm. To get tapeworm, a bird would have to eat an insect that hosts the tapeworm. Not by picking up eggs around the loft.And you can't see tapeworm eggs. They are microscopic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Thanks for stepping in. Yes a pigeon need to eat an intermediate host to get infected with tapeworms and indeed their eggs are microscopic but unlike round or hairworms they pass out their eggs in form of packets. These packets may contain eggs from 35 to upto 70. And these packets are visible to the naked eye.
So my guess is tapeworms. They also say that there are many species of tape worms ranging in their sizes so maybe my birds have some unusual sort of tape species in them. :(

I give them biosafe RO filtered water to drink so to rule out any possibility of infection. From water source as fishes also have these worms in them but sometimes you just can't have control over things. I've even tried Margosa(neem) water in their drinking water for over a month daily to purge out the worms but they keep coming back.


Yes maybe they aren't worms but then the question doesn't die, what are they?
 

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Your birds must be eating some insect then, that is carrying the tapeworm larva, as the tapeworm need a host to become infective. A pigeon isn't going to get tapeworm from eating the cyst.
 

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They must be getting reinfected and still have worms if you see the tiny eggs. You need to figure how they are getting reinfected.

Moxidectin plus would be best for your birds, if you could get it.
Need to get the recommended dose for pet pigeon with tapeworm and maybe round. Son is in CA prison and only has access to Albendacole. Please help.
 

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Isn't Albendacole the same as Fenbendazole? These are toxic to pigeons. Rather try and get another product to be on the safe side.
 
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