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Feral Pigeon Hen Lost Her Wing Feathers (Again)

2.8K views 69 replies 4 participants last post by  TastyDinosaur  
#1 ·
I feed about a dozen pigeons from my balcony on a regular basis. However, one of them named Nora has been missing for the past 2 or 3 days. I started wondering yesterday whether something had happened to her.

Today, her mate Shelly was on my balcony and then flew down to the field that my balcony overlooks and started spinning around. I scanned the entire area around where he was and there were no pigeons in sight. Then, I spotted a blue bar sitting very near him but she was not moving and so it was not easy to see. I watched them for a while and they made their way around the field a bit, but only Shelly took the occasional break to fly up to a tree or my balcony. Then out of the corner of my eye, I saw Nora attempt to fly and when I turned to look, I saw her fall back to the ground with her wings open.

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Immediately, I knew something was wrong and started hatching a plan to try to retrieve her from the field. Usually, the field is locked and I figured Nora would still try to evade me, so I didn't think my chances of retrieving her were very high. But I was able to push the gate open and was also able to get Nora into some shorter grass so I could capture her. I put her into a box that I had in my backpack and brought her back to my room.

When I got her inside, I first gave her some water, which she drank very little of. Then, I sat her on my lap and fed her some peas while I looked her over. It was immediately obvious what the issue was - she had somehow lost most of her wing feathers. But there are no open wounds or broken limbs and both wings seem to be missing mostly the same feathers, so I don't think she was attacked by a predator. In fact, other than the missing feathers she seems fine. This is the second time she lost feathers on her wings, but the last time it was just 4 of her 5 flight feathers on each wing. They just grew back a couple of months ago. This time, the feather loss is much more extensive. Not only are all of the flight feathers gone, but so are most of the primary and secondary feathers. Almost all that are left are the feathers on the leading edge of the wings.

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I asked ChatGPT about this, but none of the reasons it is giving for feather loss seem very likely except for possibly "abnormal molt" or "human interaction": ChatGPT - Pigeon Feather Loss Causes.

I should point out that she has consistently had watery droppings. I attempted to correct this when she first started laying eggs and I could control a large portion of her diet. I gave her food with probiotics for about 3 weeks, but the consistency of her droppings didn't change. She also had been sprayed for mites fairly recently, but I am not sure how effective the spray is. I noticed some pigeon fly mites crawling on 2 of my other birds within a few weeks after spraying them. If it is mites, they are only damaging the stems of the feathers and nothing else.

What else could cause a pigeon to lose all of its feathers suddenly so it cannot even fly?

She is now safe from predators and not in distress, so this isn't an emergency. But I am also not looking forward to having her as a guest until her feathers grow back. Aside from any preventative treatment to keep this from happening in the future, are there any techniques, supplements or medications I can get to help encourage feather growth?
 
#2 ·
She started getting restless in the box that I had her in, so I prepared 30 more frozen peas for her. However, when I got her out of the box, the crop felt the same as it did earlier - a bit firm like she was already full. But usually, a full crop feels spongy. I ended up giving her only 12 peas. The crop doesn't have a lump and is not asymmetrical, it just feels like the entire area is expanded a bit. I'm not sure whether it could be sourcrop.

Also, I haven't yet had a good look at her droppings. For eating 30 peas earlier, she should be producing some fresh ones. But I don't see any fresh ones. I just put her in a new box with a new paper towel so I can monitor the droppings (if any). Maybe she has an impacted crop or bowel? If so, that would be more of an emergency. I guess I will check in a couple of hours to see if she has produced any new ones.
 
#4 ·
Alright, ChatGPT says it is probably a crop blockage due to extreme dehydration and potentially eating inedible items. This sounds like it may be the case because she may have been in the field for up to 3 days before I noticed her there. The crop seems unusually high up on the neck.

So, I am using a syringe to give her a few drops of water at a time. So far I gave her 5ml that way. I am also gently massaging the crop to try to help unblock it. I am supposed to repeat this every 30 minutes.

ChatGPT also said to stop giving her solid food and to feed her baby pigeon formula, but I don't have any and probably cannot get any in time. What about mashing up peas and feeding via syringe?

Hopefully, the digestive system starts moving before I have to worry about that.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for that info.

Fortunately, one of the peas passed between the first and second treatment and the crop now feels spongy and I can feel the peas inside. So, ChatGPT is now saying to hold off on food until the crop is mostly empty. But I could feed her the mashed peas afterward to give her a chance to recover before reintroducing solid food again.

I will keep monitoring her and giving her treatments to make sure she doesn't get stopped up again.
 
#8 ·
This morning I woke up late. I expected Nora to start stirring when the sun came up, but she was quiet. She was okay though, and she passed a lot of yellow green droppings overnight. Her crop felt close to being empty. Given that she seemed to be doing better, I changed course and fed her more of the frozen peas, breaking the skin before feeding them to her rather than mashing them.

She produces some droppings, but now they are small and wet. Probably fewer than there should be, though. I let her out to walk around the living room and she stayed next to the door. She drank from a bowl of water I sat there and also picked up some seeds that were on the floor. I put the food dish down and she ate some more.

Then she surprised me by taking a flight. She flew to about 10 inches off of the ground. I guess that is progress.

Shelly sat outside on the washing machine and watched while I was taking care of Nora. So, at least he knows where she is and that she is safe.

I think I will let the squab go in the morning so Nora can have a space of her own. I have just been leaving him plenty of food so he can fill up his fat stores before letting him go. The field was sprayed with some herbicide a couple of months ago, so there aren't many seeds available and water is scarce so he will have a tougher time than Chocolate did with finding food and water.
 
#9 ·
Nora was moved into the bathroom yesterday morning and allowed to feed and water herself all day. Her droppings were small and brown with a circle of water around them. They were mostly solids. This is better than how they normally look.

However, last night and/or this morning she produced green droppings. I also noticed that they have a really strong pungent smell. I normally cannot smell the droppings unless there is a large quantity of them that pile up and then they get wet. One or two of her droppings smell as strong as dozens of decomposing droppings.

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I suspect that having yeast could explain both the smell and the chronic wet droppings. What do you think? I don't think it is sourcrop because there doesn't seem to be a smell coming from her beak and her crop varies a bit in firmness (although it seems more firm than it should be). I still have 50mg of the fluconozole I could use to treat yeast.

Last night Nora got up onto the chest twice on her own. So, I had to put away the scissors, razor, and other items I normally put on the vanity so she won't hurt herself if she goes up there. I wasn't in the room when she did it either time. When I was in the room, I saw her make the attempt and fail a couple of times.

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I gave her some crushed eggshell to help promote feather growth and act as grit.
 
#11 ·
Okay. Nora is a large hen, about 300 grams. I found another post where you recommended 1mg per 100 grams, once per day of fluconazole. So, 3mg per day for 7 to 10 days. Does that sound right?

As for deworming her, I will wait until after she has had a bath (or maybe two). For sure it has been more than 6 weeks since the last time she was sprayed, and Nora was the one who got sprayed more than a month after the solution was diluted, which might have made it ineffective.

My suspicion is that it is not mites, though. I suspect it is a deficiency of some type of nutrient. Like, maybe she laid too many eggs during her last molt so her feathers didn't develop strong enough. And maybe having yeast also negatively affected the growth of her feathers.

I showed Nora the view out of the window today, but she wouldn't let go of my fingers to grab onto the perch. So, I set her down on the chest. Before I even left the room, she jumped up on the window frame. I went over to the opposite side and she turned around and then jumped up onto the perch by herself. She decided to roost there. Maybe Shelly will be able to spot her there tomorrow and they can interact through the window.
 
#15 ·
After 3 doses of fluco, Nora's droppings are still green. They no longer have a strong smell, so I guess I will continue the treatment until the end because it is having some effect. They changed to brown and watery for about a half a day after her first dose, then returned to being green and watery.

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I gave her a bath a couple of days ago, but haven't yet sprayed her for mites.

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She sits in the window all day, only getting down when I take a shower or when she wants to eat. I got Shelly to go past the divider wall where he can see her by slowly advancing toward him. He reacted by puffing up and spinning around, but I think he expected her to follow him when he flew away. Unfortunately, he doesn't seem to want to come by and visit her even though she waits in the window all day.

Nora's crop still feels unusally firm. It is difficult to feel if there is any food inside of it, although it doesn't seem to be an unusual size.
 
#19 ·
After 8 days on fluconazole, the droppings have not changed much. In fact, they look the same as the last photo. They are still green and watery and the smell returned.

I am not sure what I should try next and could use some suggestions.

  1. Probiotics/ACV water?
  2. Antibiotics (amoxicillin)?
  3. Deworming using oral medicine or 5% carbaryl powder?
  4. Something else?
I tried probiotics before, but she wasn't isolated so I couldn't control everything she ate. Maybe doing it now would have a different effect. I also have never given Nora antibiotics and have only sprayed her externally for mites.

The feathers are slowly developing now. I previously thought it would be several months until they would regrow, but now I think it will be a matter of weeks until she can fly again. The new feathers must have been growing in all along to replace them. So, it is unlikely she was either plucked or the feathers broke off at the base, it is just how she molts.

I think it is possible that molting all the feathers at once is not a problem with her health, but genetic. She must have around 5-6 surviving offspring at this point so natural selection wouldn't have necessarily weeded this defect out. She might just be from a long line of pigeons that live very short lives.

Of course, her droppings indicate she is not healthy, so will still need some treatment. I just have my doubts it will also stop her from molting this way.
 
#21 ·
Bleeding Pigeon

I brought Nora out into the living room today to show Shelly that she is still with me and she is okay. But when I put her back on her favorite perch, both of my hands had blood on them. So, I went to wash my hands off to see whether the blood was coming from her or me. And it wasn't me. A little while later, she had blood on the tip of her left wing. Fortunately, she trusts me a lot and let me wrap a tissue around the wing tip and apply direct pressure until the bleeding stopped while she stood on the perch.

But I am confused. As far as I know, she didn't come into contact with anything that could cause her enough harm to start bleeding. There was no blood anywhere but on my hands, her wing, on her body just under the wing, and on the window next to her perch (where it likely came off her wing while she was flapping). So, I couldn't even really tell when the bleeding started. I was hoping to just let her ride on my hand or arm all the way into the living room, but she didn't come so willingly and ended up walking out of the bathroom and hid under my desk for a bit, where I finally rounded her up. But there was no blood under the desk or in the living room at all.

Any ideas on why she would suddenly start bleeding from one of her wing tips? I don't think she has any broken bones. All I could come up with was either she has a condition that could cause her to spontaneously bleed or she was injured before I caught her and the scab scraped off while I was trying to round her up. The blood was lumpy, so it seemed like it was already clotting before I noticed it.

Her feather growth is coming along nicely. Yesterday, she flew from one side of the bathroom to the other and only dropped a couple of feet.
 
#22 ·
Nora's progress is pretty good. Her feathers are about halfway grown in, now.

I looked up the issue with her bleeding on ChatGPT and it said it was most likely a "blood feather". It said that this can happen during a molt, so this was a satisfying answer. She hasn't bled since.

Unfortunately, I have been busy and was searching for deworming treatment on and off. I plugged the symptoms into ChatGPT and it suggested that internal parasites were more likely than Coccidiosis, although I found treatments for both. They are coming from China, so it will take at least a week or two to get them, though.

I could use an expert opinion on which of these products (if any) look the most legitimate. I tend to lean toward getting something that says it is specifically formulated for pigeons, but all of those products say they are "plant based", so I am unsure of their effectiveness compared to ivermectin. But then, the ivermectin has no dosage instructions for pigeons. I also found some moxidectin that says it is for cattle and praziquantel for koi fish, but those don't sound likely to be what I need.

Option 1 sounds best to me simply because it is already pre-measured for dosing pigeons with 1 tablet. But then, having something I can put in the water I leave on my balcony for a couple of days to treat all of the pigeons that come here (especially if it gets rid of mites) also sounds like a good idea.

Dewormer

Option 1

Same product described in English (but 5x the price): https://www.lazada.co.th/products/100-i5557632673.html

Option 2


Google Translate Description

Natural Plant Raw Materials 50g Pure Deworming Saixin Pigeon In Vitro Complete Ascaris Tapeworm Nematodes

Pass once
Adult/embryo/egg in vivo and in vitro

Internal Drive:
Add 2000ml of water or mix 1000g of wet micro feed with 5g, use once every six months for 2-3 days.
External Drive:
Dilute 10 g of this product with 1000ml of water and spray on the pigeon attic and cage once a day in the morning and once a day for 2 days.
Option 3


This one has no info on the product page on how to dose pigeons. I contacted the vendor to see if they can provide it.

Coccidiosis Treatment


Google Translate Description

Goofy 3 In 1 5G*10 Bags

Trichomonas,Coccidiosis,Esteritis Triple in One

Eat less, drink more water, let go of green stools, white stools or watery stools, lose weight, become thinner, open your chest muscles to purple, tilt your head and neck, sag your wings and joints, and reduce the ability to fly, etc.

White spots in the throat, phlegm or yellow cheese-like secretions, full vegetation, decreased food intake, bloody stools, malnutrition, weight loss, body weakness, loose nose hair, unknown vomiting, black nose, etc.

【Usage and Dosage】Mixed Drinks

Each pack of 5g of this product is mixed with 3000ml of water. For drinking, it is used continuously for 3-5 days, protection 1-2 days a month.

young pigeons 21 days old: 2 days of use;

Use before delivery2 days before ejaculation: Use for 2 days.
 
#23 ·
I use the liquid injectable ivermectin. There is no dosing instructions for pigeons on the package, but vets and rescuers have told me the dosage is 0.08ml per 250grams. (I give it orally rather than inject it.)

I have used FishMox (amoxicillin sold for use on pet fish) for pigeons, as long as you can change the dosage that sort of stuff can work well.
 
#24 ·
Thanks. I don't have to go to such extremes for antibiotics because they are available over the counter at pharmacies and they are really cheap.

However, finding pesticides is quite a bit more difficult due to several factors.

1. Farming is an industry that is closed off for foreigners to do, so there is no incentive for any farm supply stores to advertise in English. And as far as I can tell, none of the ones that have an Internet presence sell anything like pesticides.
2. Local pet stores primarily have supplies for dogs and cats. One of them specializes in fish and birds, but other than live animals, their selection of supplies for birds is limited to food. They don't have any idea where I can buy treatments for pigeons.
3. Most local animal hospitals similarly treat cats and dogs only. There is one that specializes in "exotic pets", but when I called them, they were willing to set up an appointment, but were unwilling to simply sell me treatments without looking at the pigeon first.
4. Online there are a couple of marketplaces similar to Amazon.com. It is very convenient to not have to call anyone and have goods delivered directly to my door. But, searching can be somewhat tedious because there are very few offerings and a lot of irrelevant results. They sell more products that kill pigeons than that help them and most of the time they end up in the search results. To make things more complicated, there is a brand of (human) baby products called Pigeon, so you can guess what comes up when you search for "baby pigeon food" - not a single product that is for pigeons.

I found out last year that one of the biggest one loft races in Asia is right here in town. However, I haven't yet attempted to contact them to see if they have any idea where I can get hard-to-find items for pigeons. No doubt they have a stock of supplies for their own use, but I am unsure if they would be willing to sell them to an amateur rehabber like me. They are also a bit off of the beaten path, so even if they have what I need it isn't nearly as convenient as ordering online. Whether the vendor is in Thailand or China, the shipping cost is the same.

----------------------------------------

I haven't found any fluid products at all. Ivermectin comes in tablets and paste, the latter of which is very pricey and clearly intended for large animals like horses. There are at least 3 different types of ivermectin tablets that are all from Agri China and it isn't clear what the difference is (if any). Unfortunately, most of them look like they will be delayed because the vendors are shut down for Chinese new year and won't ship until Feb 5. But, the 4 options from my previous post will ship out quickly.

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like any of these vendors have sold any yet, as there are no ratings or reviews for any of them.

Option 2 had a flash sale that dropped the price by 1/3 and also provided free shipping, which also means I risk less if it is not effective. So, I went ahead and ordered it. And they have already packed it. It says it works for mites, so it is worth a try to see if I can treat the whole flock by adding it to the drinking water. Pigeonfly is endemic here. Even if it isn't effective for Nora, it could still be useful.

I am considering ordering some praziquantel tablets as well, since they are only 4 USD vs the 11 USD it costs for ivermectin tablets. Unfortunately, it is not clear how many milligrams per tablet in the description or images. So, I asked the seller in chat and I am waiting for a reply.


I checked with ChatGPT for dosing pigeons and it says:

Tablets often contain 50–100 mg of praziquantel per tablet, which must be divided carefully.

General Guidance for Praziquantel Use in Pigeons:
  • Dosage Range: For pigeons, the commonly recommended dosage of praziquantel is 5–10 mg per kilogram (mg/kg) of body weight.
  • For a 250-gram pigeon:Dosage=Body weight in kg×Dosage in mg/kg
    • At 5 mg/kg: 0.25×5=1.25 mg
    • At 10 mg/kg: 0.25×10=2.5 mg
Thus, a 250-gram pigeon would require 1.25–2.5 mg of praziquantel.

  • Delivery Method: Praziquantel is usually administered orally. Crushing the tablet and mixing it with a small amount of food or water that the pigeon will consume entirely is one option.
  • Frequency: Typically, praziquantel is given as a single dose. However, always confirm the specific parasite being treated and follow a veterinarian's advice for repeat treatments if necessary.
  • Safety: Ensure the product does not contain other active ingredients that could be harmful to pigeons.

Do you concur this sounds like the right dosage? I don't trust the output from ChatGPT without human verification.
 
#25 ·
Here is a picture of Nora's feather growth progress.

Image


She stays inactive all day. She never leaves that spot except to get down to eat and drink. Although, she doen't act sluggish when she moves around. She also keeps her tail pointed down most of the time, but that seems like it could also be tied to having intestinal parasites.

The droppings are gritty, but mostly liquid. Still a bit yellow-green. Not really much change at all, even when I tried some probiotics and ACV water.
 
#26 ·
I’ve only used the liquid ivermectin and the moxidectin/praziquantel combination, so I don’t know the dosage for just praziquantel. You could try making a new thread. I’ve also heard of people using the ivermectin paste for chickens, so it can be dosed down, but I haven’t personally done it.
 
#27 ·
I found another option with a praziquantel that I can get within Thailand. It is VETAFARM - the same local brand as the probiotics and the external parasitic spray that I got. At least the probiotics seemed to work. The spray may have worked at first, but it either lasts a very short time or it has a very short shelf life.


Google Translate Description:

Product details of Wormout Gel Divider, Safe for All Bird Breeds, Pump Bottle 10 ml.
10 g

****

It is safe for all species of birds, and it is an effective deworming food for all kinds.

How to use the Sirring (I think they meant syringe)

**

Mix Wormout Gel 1 cc. per 160 ml. of water ( for 3 - 4 birds )

Mix Wormout Gel 0.5 cc. per 80 ml. of water (for raising 2 birds)

Mix Wormout Gel 0.25 cc. per 40 ml. of water ( for raising 1 bird )

Mix and place in a cage for the birds to eat on their own for 2 days in a row.

Mix and eat again, day by day, every time. The remaining water should not be reused.

Birds should be dewormed once every three months.

How to use the pump bottle

*

Mix 2 pumps of Wormout Gel per 160 ml. of water ( for 3 - 4 birds )

Mix Wormout Gel 1 pump. Per 90 ml. of water ( in case of raising 2 birds )

Mix and place in a cage for the birds to eat on their own for 2 days in a row.

Mix and eat again, day by day, every time. The remaining water should not be reused.

Birds should be dewormed once every three months.

Indications

****

During the 2 days to eat, remove all kinds of water from the cage, only the water that has been mixed is left.

How to store

*

Store in a dry place below 30 degrees.

Active composition: 20g/L Praziquantel , 20 g/L Oxfendazole
There are several vendors selling it and several different quantities available. This one is the smallest quantity and should be enough to treat a single pigeon. If it works, I can easily get more.

I asked ChatGPT and it says that Oxfendazole can be toxic for pigeons if the dosage is too high. However, given that Nora is isolated, I can give her exactly what is specified in the instructions without having to worry about her drinking more than her share.

Let me know if you think this is okay. If so, I think I will wait until after I try the one from China and keep this as a backup plan. I should be able to get my hands on some within 48 hours after ordering. If not, I will consider one of the other options from China, perhaps the ivermectin tablets.

The cheapest ivermectin paste was around 15 USD, but all of the other options are around 50-60 USD. The former option said it is a single syringe that is for a 1320-lb horse and contains prazipan as well as ivermectin. It is Equimax, a US brand. It specifically states:

Equimax paste has been formulated specifically for use in horses and ponies only. This product should not be used in other animal species as severe adverse reactions, including fatalities in dogs, may result.

It doesn't sound wise to try to treat a pigeon with this. But tablets are easy to divide up on a cutting board to get approximately the right dose and Marina already walked me through how to administer powders to pigeons by wrapping them inside slightly wet bread. So, I guess I will consider the ivermectin tablets if the Wormout Gel isn't deemed safe for pigeons.
 
#28 ·
I found another option with a praziquantel that I can get within Thailand. It is VETAFARM - the same local brand as the probiotics and the external parasitic spray that I got. At least the probiotics seemed to work. The spray may have worked at first, but it either lasts a very short time or it has a very short shelf life.


Google Translate Description:



There are several vendors selling it and several different quantities available. This one is the smallest quantity and should be enough to treat a single pigeon. If it works, I can easily get more.

I asked ChatGPT and it says that Oxfendazole can be toxic for pigeons if the dosage is too high. However, given that Nora is isolated, I can give her exactly what is specified in the instructions without having to worry about her drinking more than her share.

Let me know if you think this is okay. If so, I think I will wait until after I try the one from China and keep this as a backup plan. I should be able to get my hands on some within 48 hours after ordering. If not, I will consider one of the other options from China, perhaps the ivermectin tablets.

The cheapest ivermectin paste was around 15 USD, but all of the other options are around 50-60 USD. The former option said it is a single syringe that is for a 1320-lb horse and contains prazipan as well as ivermectin. It is Equimax, a US brand. It specifically states:




It doesn't sound wise to try to treat a pigeon with this. But tablets are easy to divide up on a cutting board to get approximately the right dose and Marina already walked me through how to administer powders to pigeons by wrapping them inside slightly wet bread. So, I guess I will consider the ivermectin tablets if the Wormout Gel isn't deemed safe for pigeons.
I would not use fenbendazole. It’s well known as toxic and dangerous for pigeons and doves.

Ivermectin is not approved for birds, but is still frequently used off-label for chickens and pigeons. The injectable version I use is for cattle and swine, and I haven’t had any problems with flock and individual treatments with it.
 
#29 ·
Thanks for the advice. I guess I won't be ordering Wormout Gel, then.

I also read up a bit on dosing with ivermectin tablets, and that doesn't sound promising, either.

Ivermectin Dosage | Pigeon-Talk

Some of the available tablets are 5mg and others are 7.5mg, so slicing them up into 50-75 even piles is going to introduce a lot of inaccuracy. I guess I will keep looking for a liquid option. It is strange that searching each day on the same site brings up completely different results for the same phrases.

But I guess I am in limbo because the product I ordered won't arrive until at least Feb 3. And I most likely won't get anything else to ship from China until at least Feb 7. So, unless I find something else within Thailand, I will have to wait until then.
 
#30 ·
Well, crap. The seller came back from holiday and immediately cancelled my order. Apparently, they weren't willing to both give me a discount up front and eat the cost of the on-time guarantee, which they would have had to pay because the order was so late.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find anything else locally. However, I didn't think to try Amazon.com and it turns out they will ship some items to Thailand without exorbitant fees.

Option 4

Farmalab Natural Dewormer Internal & External 100 Tabs Poultry - Vitamin for Poultry Rooster Hen Chicken Baby Chick Doves Pigeons and All Caged Birds (Pigeon Doves Squail)


This is very much like Option 1, except it has positive reviews.

Option 5

Jeffers Ivermectin Gel Dewormer for Horses - Apple Flavored, 1.87% Broad Spectrum Dewormer Paste - Effective Parasite Control for Worms, Pinworms, Bots & More - Safe for All Equine


Option 6

Quest Plus Gel Moxidectin/ Praziquantel Horse Dewormer, Late Grazing Season recommended for Horses and Ponies 6 months and older, 0.5oz Sure-Dial Syringe


Option 7

Ivermectin Horse Paste Dewomer, Horse Supplies 6.08g dose 1.87% (2 Pack) Includes Free Guide - Just for Fun Horse Tricks


Option 8

Chicken Dewormer - 120 Tablets All-Natural Formula, US-Made Chicken Dewormer Supplies For All Ages and Sizes to Relieve and Prevent Worms in Laying Hens, Chicks, Roosters, Turkeys, and Other Poultry


Possible alternative to Option 1 or Option 4. This one has a complete list of ingredients as well as good reviews.

------------------

I am considering either Option 4 + Option 5 or Option 4 + Option 6. I have enough points with Amazon so that these combinations are basically free and they only take about 10 days to ship, which is around the same as from China.

Option 5 cannot be ordered individually, I would either need to buy 2 or add-on one of the others. Although, I could order Option 4 individually.

I can also get a kitchen scale locally so I don't have to guess the weight of the bird. I can also get a 3 ml syringe that measures in 0.1 ml increments. However, I am still unsure how to measure out either the Ivermectin or the Moxidectin / Praziquantel for pigeons or whether those products would even be safe for them. I don't see any liquid ivermectin there, but if you find a product that looks like it might work on Amazon, please post the link.

This post recommends getting the ivermectin gel instead of the paste: https://www.pigeons.biz/threads/equine-ivermectin-paste-1-87.72295/, but trying to follow the logic on what the dosage should be is pretty difficult.

Nora's wings grew to full length several days ago and started cooing at me and making runs at the window. I am unsure I should set her free yet, though. On one hand, I could probably trap her again pretty easily with my new trap. On the other, she will probably start a new clutch as soon as I let her go, so keeping her captive for more than a few hours upon recapture might put the squabs at risk. Although, I can't think of any reason why I would need to hold her for very long just to dose her.
 
#31 ·
I don’t use all-natural dewormers. They just aren’t effective enough to be worth it for me, but they’re fine as a preventative measure. You might want to start a new thread about the others for dosage help. Do you still think your pigeon has worms? Is she skinny or are her droppings still off?