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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I did write a lot more detail but then I went to add images and it felt the need to delete everything...

Basically I have been looking after 3 racing pigeons for my step dad and one of them has become unwell but i have no idea what is wrong as I don't know a lot about pigeons really.

I noticed yesterday quite a bit of slimy watery dropping and so I put the poor little fella in a separate loft and gave him some water which he did drank (some of.)

I also gave him some feed and he was pecking away at it but I could not tell if he actually managed to eat any as it was very dark.

I let him out today to see if he would fly and he did try but he only got 3 feet high and then swooped back down. He does seem to be walking normal albeit perhaps a bit slower than the other 2 pigeons.

He is also puffed up a lot and may be slouching but am not sure...

His eyes are very tight looking and he keeps closing them/squinting relatively frequently. They do perk up a bit iif something gets his attention though.

He seemed more than happy to walk about the garden pecking at the floor etc like normal, but I can see he is feeling poorly.

I would very much appreciate some assistance/insight!

Summary -

Can't fly
Looks like he has diarrhoea
squinting/eyes tight
puffed up a lot

Please note he has always been more scraggy looking/rough looking and he has a wing injury (old one) which is why one wing hangs lower and looks wonky.






Imaged won't work for some reason here iss a link

http://imgur.com/a/YvMGc
 

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Thank you for seeking some help. The bird may have several issues going on, but the bird is definitely sick.

Do you have any pigeon medicines on hand?

FIRST and foremost, before we try to help you figure out what is wrong with the bird you need to stabilize the bird.

BRING bird in a warm room out of drafts of air, and put inside a carrier or cage.

Allow the bird to drink and then you need to hand feed the bird. He is not eating enough on his own to sustain life and needs the energy more then ever just to live .

If he is not eating like he used to, you can hand feed the bird frozen peas (that are thawed out, warmed, and drained)Give him about 20 and allow him to digest and repeat. Gently open beak and put a pea on top of and back off tongue and allow bird to swallow and close beak and repeat. Once he gets his appetite back you can stop the hand feeding, but only when all his weight is back on.

Here is a UK link for access to vets in your area, plus there is a wealth of other info http://www.pigeonrescue.co.uk/rescuecentres.htm

.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey thanks for getting back to me.

I have a carrier so I will go and pop him into it and let him sleep in my shed with me tonight. It's not much warmer in here than the lofts but I do have an electric heater I could leave on at a low setting.

I don't think I have anything at hand to make the carrier more comfortable/warmer tonight sadly but will have a dig around.

I will be hand feeding him shortly and will update to let you know how it goes.

He is quite dirty from sitting in his diarrhoea from before I Noticed he was unwell but I am reluctant to try and give him a wash as I do not want to make him worse. is this wise or would you suggest trying to bath him in slight warm water?

Thanks for the links!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Apologies, I do not think we have any pigeon medication sadly.

I know we used to have some antibiotics that were given to us to help treat a wood pigeons with canker, but not sure if they are still around but will have a look!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I found a can of microwaveable "garden" peas, I assume these are basically the same as de-thawed frozen peas? (silly question I know but...yah..)

If not I do still have the pigeon feed or would peas be a better choice?

Cheers!

 

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If you have a heating pad, you can set it on low and put the bird on that, with a towel between the bird and pad.

Heaters can dry the air too much and give off gasses that are not good for them.

Pigeon seed is fine, but might be a little harder to feed, if you can get him to eat about a tablespoon make sure he drinks after.

Thawed peas are soft and moist and are easier to feed, not sure what type of peas you are talking about.

If you have any organic apple cider vinegar? You could put a drop of that in the water bowl, that will help the bird to repopulate some good gut bacteria and help crowd out some bad bacteria. Probiotics can also be used to help with gut issues and may solidify the poo, also will help the bird to assimilate his food better.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Hey, no heating pad sadly. The heater I have is a small electric heater that basically heats a metal grill with a fan behind it, blowing out warm air. Would this be ok providing I do not let the room become too humid/dry?

I just fed the little fella 10 peas done in the way that you suggested but I noticed his crop was looking very big so Ii stopped to check here first. Getting paranoid about over feeding. He is fighting the feeding a ton, took about 15 mins just to get him to eat those 10.

Pic should be attached. Sorry they are all sideways my phone is always buggering up.

Is that ok? safe to keep feeding another 10 peas? I am sure I am just being over cautious.

Also do those eyelids look a bit too yellowy to you or?

Thanks again.



 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright I just weren't through my step dads shed and found a bunch of stuff he used to administer to hiss pigeons to improve their development and their racing performance + recovery, immune system etc.

Would any of these be of any benefit? Unfortunately everything is out of date by quite a bit. Would that mean they are harmful or do they just have diminished effects?

GEM-THEPAX - 03/12
The use of Gemthepax during the year is strongly recommend, especially during breeding and racing. it has been specially developed and carefully controlled to have a specific positive effect on the beneficial gut micro flora by providing essential nutrients in a highly bioavailable form. Independent studies carried out in several laboratories (including the world famous 'Institute de Pasteur in Paris') have shown that gemthepax is able to stimulate these beneficial species. Other independent studies carried out show that Gemthepax can stimulate and protect the beneficial gut cro-flora even during antibiotic therapy. Always use GEMTHEPAX if ever the loft requires the use of antibiotics. GEMTHEPAX is produced using a patented process to ensure a consistent product with high Bioactivity Coefficient. It is also backed by a extensive European research program. It can be seen therefore that the pedigree of GEMTHEPAX is second to none, but we all know that pedigrees are only pieces of paper.


E-PLUS from AVIFORME - Best before AUG 2011
E-PLUS Liquid Recovery Prebiotic and Electrolytes for Racing Pigeons - High potency prebiotic and electrolytes, formulated as a liquid nutritional supplement for rapid absorption and maximum effect. UNIQUE POINTS: Very rapid return to peak condition after racing, training or illness, Invaluable aid to recovery, including wet droppings and yb sickness, Helps prevent "bad bug" build up, Economical, 2500ml should last a loft of 50 pigeon at least a full season. BENEFITS: Assists during periods of stress (a major cause of reduced performance), Helps replenish essential gut flora after antibiotic treatment, Supplied complete with a dispenser (2500ml size) for fast and accurate administration. INGREDIENTS: Fructoligosaccharides, Sodium Chloride, Potassium Chloride, Citric Acid, Magnesium Sulphate. ADMINISTRATION: Add 1 pump (if supplied) or 5ml per half litre of drinking water (pint approx) on return from race to replace essential fluid loss. After illness, medication or stress, use for at least 5 consecutive days.

AVIMAX SOLUTION by AVIFORM - Best before dec 2010
UNIQUE POINTS:

Contains more 100% pure grade acetyl l-carnitine than any other pigeon supplement.


BENEFITS:

Promotes conversion of long chain fatty acids to energy for the flight muscles.
Ensures a sustained supply of energy.
Helps prevent muscle fatigue and cramp.
Less lactic acid is formed during muscle work, since fatty acids rather than carbohydrates are converted to energy.
Reduces the content of fatty acids in the blood by promoting their conversion to energy.
Reduces breakdown of muscle tissue and helps protect muscle against injury.
Much faster post race recovery.
Greatly improves endurance and stamina


MYCOFORM-T by AVIFORM - Best before June 2011
UNIQUE POINTS:

A single weekly measure maintains a clear system, essential for peak performance.
Very effective.
100% Natural.
No side effects.
Totally safe.
Use for 5 days during respiratory problems.



BENEFITS:
Even healthy birds will look and fly better.
Reduces losses (especially during young bird racing).
Simple administration.
Very economical.


GEM ULTRA-VITS - Can't find best before date
A combination of top class vitamins, minerals, amino acids and electrolytes in a water soluble form, all of which are essential for birds throughout the year, especially during periods of racing and ill health.

Simple to use just add one scoop to each litre of the birds drinking water once or twice per week, or for three days after an illness.


Carr's NATRAVIT - 12/3/9 (american or uk unknown)
Natravit is a totally natural multivitamin complementing the Carrs Natural Improver range packed full of naturally occurring vitamins.

This product has the added advantage of containing 4 omega oils, 3, 6, 9 & 7, all essential for vitality health and cell renewal.

This product is produced from the berries of one plant and it is the only plant that produces all four omega oils. Omega 7 being the most rare. It also contains naturally occurring caratonoid, and this will help with colour enhancment, a lot of fanciers report that the feather colour becomes more vivid when it is being used.

Natravit replaces the berries and seeds that the birds would find in the wild. In the autumn huge flocks of birds in the wild can be seen harvesting bushes - they are taking advantage of the omega oils in the berries and are preparing for winter by topping up there oil levels. Omega oils are not produced by the body naturally, they have to be eaten in some way, and this product is an excellent way of providing your birds with a balanced array of Omega oils and vitamins.


Carr's AD-HERB (original i believe, red label colour) - no best before found
Ad-herb Original is specially designed as a natural alternative to modern day antibiotics. The aim is to improve the performance, condition and digestion of your birds the natural way.

Aims:
✔ Improve performance and condition
✔ Maintain excellent gut function and digestion
✔ Support your bird’s natural immune system
✔ Enhance feather quality
✔ To promote good circulation
✔ Produce tight droppings

Highly recommended for use when breeding, rearing, racing and moulting by G. W. Kirkland (11 times national winner) and many other top flyers.

For pigeons of any age
Anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties.
Contains naturally occurring omega oils 3 and 6.
Oil based: for adding to the feed.


Carr's TURBO BOOST - no best before found
Turbo Boost is pure hemp oil, cold pressed to retain all of its natural properties. Invigorate your birds (even during training!) and produce high levels of vitality! Containing omega oils 3 and 6 (essential for cell renewal when birds are feeling fatigued), Turbo Boost can help slow down the muscle deterioration process during racing.

Aims:
✔ Accelerate through the moult
✔ Produce the perfect moult
✔ Invigorate your birds during training and racing
✔ Produce high levels of vitality
✔ Win!

Turbo Boost can also be used when the birds are moulting to help push out feathers and to encourage the moult when used in the 'darkness system'.

Highly recommended for training, sprint to middle distance racing and moulting.


GEM - IMPACT HIGH ENERGY TONIC - Expiry date 01/04(?)
A powerful high energy tonic containing a complex mix of absorbable iodine's, active iron, cobalt, sodium molybdate and pure Vitamin B12. all carried on a high energy base.

Impact helps:

Natural resistance
Thyroid gland function
Stimulates metabolism
Purges the blood
Produces pink clean skin
Birds seem to blow up
We recommend that fanciers use IMPACT twice a week during racing and three days a week to birds that are about to be paired up. Use at least once once a week in the stock loft throughout the year.

A superb complex high energy tonic. IMPACT is a powerful high energy tonic containing a complex mix of iodines, active iron, cobalt and pure vitamin B12, carried on a high energy base. All of which enter the bloodstream quickly. The pure vitamin B12 enhances energy metabolism in muscle tissues and is also involved in red blood cell formation. Add to water.


Apologies for the wall of text but would be great if someone could look into these for me and see if any of them would be beneficial despite the best before dates. I know some of them say they are good natural antibiotics and goods for illness etc.

Also just an upddate : The pigeon seems to be pooing (what else to call it...) rather a lot and it iss very runny.

When I say a lot I mean easily 6 or more times in just as many or less hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bump! Not really sure what to do here.

I have stabilised the pigeon but he definitely has a bad case of smelly diarrhoea and I think some of the solutions posted above could helpp while I wait for a ride to the vet (no transport of my own and will be hours.) But I do not know if any of them are safe / truly beneficial for him.

Also he still has a big lump just under hids beak which i assume is a full crop (?) but it has been this size (posted in picture above) a day and a bit now.
 

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I found a can of microwaveable "garden" peas, I assume these are basically the same as de-thawed frozen peas? (silly question I know but...yah..)

If not I do still have the pigeon feed or would peas be a better choice?

Cheers!

Thank you so much for helping that pigeon out.

Green peas that are forzen,thawed,warmed(not hot) would be your choice to feed. They are easy to swallow and digest for pigeons. They also have water in them that helps the bird to stay hydrated.
With peas you can give some seed mix also that is soaked for an hour. You can pat dry the feed after soaking it, for easy feeding.
 

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I just fed the little fella 10 peas done in the way that you suggested but I noticed his crop was looking very big so Ii stopped to check here first. Getting paranoid about over feeding. He is fighting the feeding a ton, took about 15 mins just to get him to eat those 10.
If he's struggling when you feed him then you may scratch/damage his beak. To feed him you need to calm him down first. For that you need to hold the pigeon,stretch his legs(and claws) against its tail and wrap a towel around its body with legs straightened as mentioned. Wrap the towel around his body till shoulders. Towel should tighter around the legs and loose around the crop. then take the pigeon into your lap and open the beak gently and put one pea at a time in back of his throat and let him swallow and repeat. Please check everytime before feeding that his crop is empty. If his crop doesn't empty then don't feed, wait until it gets empty and then feed.
 

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He is quite dirty from sitting in his diarrhoea from before I Noticed he was unwell but I am reluctant to try and give him a wash as I do not want to make him worse. is this wise or would you suggest trying to bath him in slight warm water?

Thanks for the links!
Its never advisable to wash/bath a sick pigeon. Sick pigeons because of ailment are not able to control their body temperature. I don't know what's the temperature where you live but I won't recommend to wash,I would call it wash a pigeon as he will become susceptible to hypothermia.
 

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How does his insides of mouth looks like? Do you see any growth,slime or anything else except for a clear pink throat(that's what its meant to be)?


Do you have ciprofloxacin at hand(if you don't have amoxicilin or baytril)? Or can you buy it? Its a broad spectrum antibotic for humans and easily available in UK.
Before giving any med can you get his droppings examined???
I didn't see any pics but the way you describe the birds condition insinuate salmonella.


(I'm sorry,my cell phone couldn't open any of the pics you posted above. Don't mind if I were in your place I would use my profile album to upload pics. Its fairly simple. Just goto your profile page and start a album and upload pics directly from your PC/phone. The forum runs pics less than 300 kb best,I think. Or you can goto "postimg.org" and upload your pic there and post the direct link meant for other websites here)

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hey cheers for the advice.

I will be taking him to the vets this evening to get him examined properly. I was unable to look inside his mouth as he was struggling too much and I did not want to cause any damage.

Do you know how much vets charge to ave dropping analysed as I have no cash left after the consultation fees and cost of potential antibiotics etc.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Don't have any medication at the moment sadly other than te things I posted earlier. But hopefully I will be able to get some from the vet this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey just got back from thee vet. She gave the little fella a physical examination and then examined his droppings under a microscope.

She said there was a lot of bacteria wiggling around in his droppings and has given me some Metronidazole Suppression 200mg to be dosed via syringe once a day for the next 5 days.

She says that if the bacteria is the only things wrong with him, there is a good chance that the antibiotics will clear it up and he will regain hiss full health.

She also said she could feel seed in hiss crop so he must have been eating at some point, though every time I have seen him try to eat seed he has been unable to do so, and I have been watching.

I am a bit reluctant to hand feed him more peas as he has a lump undder his beak which I assume is his crop, and it looks full to me but then again I don't really know... The last time I fed him was last night, 10 peas only as again the crop was looking very full and I was paranoid about over feeding / hiss crop not working correctly.

I should have mentioned this to the vet but was so relived to hear that there was a goods chance of the bacteria being clear up and I did not think in the moment...

I will try to get some more photos of his crop, hopefully someone could let me know how it looks to them.

Thanks again!
 

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Metronidazole is not the best med for bacterial infections. Did you go to an avian vet? Metronidazole would be used more for canker.
 
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